We have had our 2018 25b for almost five years now. I added several updates to make travel easier with grandkids. I love going on trips in the RV but every year before the temps get cold the water needs to be drained out of the plumbing and special antifreeze used at least in the drains.
A couple of years ago I added a valve to suck antifreeze into the water lines. But I couldn’t get it to work right and didn’t have time to investigate. Those winters I just blew out the lines with an air compressor. I did end up with a leak at a low point drain and a different year I ruined the shower head so air compression alone is not always completely effective.
I begin winterizing by emptying the water tank. There is a valve on the RV floor that opens the tank. Then I isolate the hot water heater from the plumbing.
There are two hot water bypass valves in this RV. Both are accessed through the cold air return under the stove.
After the heater is bypassed so no more water flows into the heater, I drain it through the drain plug. Actually the floor drain doesn’t shut off properly so I open the water heater. I use a 7/8” socket wrench specifically for this job. Opening the pressure release valve pushes air into the heater so it empties faster and all the way. It can be flushed out with a hose but I didn’t do it this year. Maybe in the spring!
This water heater has an anode rod attached to the plug. If the rod gets crusted it needs to be changed but this one has never crusted.
Next the low point drains are opened to let water out of the pipes. These are a little inconvenient to access in this model because they are located under the large storage drawer where I keep pots and pans. The whole drawer has to be emptied and slid off the roller arms. I’ve gotten pretty good at it after practice. But it’s awkward.
These drains open straight up but they have to be closed to the correct side or they leak. So I have marked them with a Sharpee.
After the water drains the next step is blowing out the pipes with an air compressor. The water has to have someplace to go so I do this first with the drains opened.
I had a jerry rigged air blower with a 3/8” hose at the end of the typical air duster and a clamped on fitting for the 5/8” hose connection. But I got tired of having to use the trigger to release the air. I broke down and bought a part for the purpose. I use quick connections on the air compressor hose too.
It’s much easier to hook up and the valve can be open the entire time. Need to set the air compressor to about 40 lbs of pressure. Then release the air.
The next step is to close the low point drains and open one faucet at a time until the water stops running. And don’t forget the toilet. During this time the water pump is off. They say to open the pump filter to be sure it is clean and drained if not using antifreeze. So I did open it. Helps to keep the cup from freezing onto the pump too.
Finally got to the part that I fixed this year. I just left it at this point the last two years. Many owners say it’s good enough. I had bought and installed the valve and had plenty of pink antifreeze. So I took apart the valve connections to examine it and darned if it wasn’t backwards! It worked fine in flow through mode but blocked off the suction in the winterize mode. Well that was an easy fix. It did not have an arrow or noticeable direction. Had a 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time!
I turned on the pump and pumped each faucet and the toilet until it ran pink. Have to work fast cause it’s sucking up the liquid. It used almost the full gallon.
Next step is to be sure all the drains have pink antifreeze in them. Although there is some from running the faucets I always add a little more. I used the rest of an old bottle and what was left of the gallon!
I’m not sure whether it’s easier to take out the drawer or replace it but the arms have to be in just the right spot before it can slide in.
The next night the temperature dropped to 24° and it felt like I finished just in time!