As long as I was working on the barn doors in the family room I decided to see if I could install the closet door. The jamb was already installed when I realized that I didn’t have a door that fit in the space. When I took the time to look more closely at the jamb I noticed the shims from the original door were still behind the boards. I pulled the jamb nails out and took off all the shims. Then I reinstalled the jamb minimizing the space between it and the framing as much as I could. I had to trim off some drywall and pound it as flat as possible. I nailed the frame in place again. Then the door barely fit. With the latch in place it closes tightly but reasonably well and the 24” door finally fit in a 24” frame.
I’m kind of fond of these old doors. Many people replace them because they are just hollow core and originally I thought I would too. But it is nice (and cheap) to be re-using the doors that came with the house and after all, I have saved them all this time. These have a lovely finish unlike the newer prehung doors I bought through Craigslist. I put a quick water based polyurethane on the new doors and they are still quite gray in tone.
I may take the time to renew the finish with a golden tint. But I really need to get started on trim.
I bought a pair of glass insert french doors five years ago thinking they would let in the extra light from the family room into the dining area. However when I finally decided to hang doors in the space, I no longer had room for swing open doors. Even though the space was built specifically for these doors, they were not going to work. They are cut too short to hang as barn doors too. Briefly I thought closet bypass system would work but I would have to cut the doors even shorter. I gave up on the double glass doors and decided to find another solution. These will go to the Restore. Unless I save them for the new garage! I paid $100 so hate to not use them.
The homemade doors that I bought on Craigslist four years ago have been in our way ever since. They are big and bulky and heavy as can be. I paid about $35 a piece for them. I was disappointed they were not hardwood, just pine which is I suppose is wood and wood is hard! I offered a lower price and the owners seemed happy to get rid of them!
I have been moving them from the garage to the closet to the bedroom etc. as we worked on the house. My son saw one that is waiting to be installed in the family room bathroom and said why don’t you use those? Well, why not? I’m losing interest in replacing the older hollow core doors in the house so I might as well use two of these big doors and hang them as barn doors. I had ordered a single barn door hardware system thinking I would use it in the bathroom for the attic door but there was no headroom for it there. So I had one on hand to try. The two widest doors were 31 1/4″ and the opening is 66″ after the casing went in. But I thought perhaps I could add to the edge to make the doors wide enough to cover the gap.
I put them in front of the opening and stepped back to consider the design as sliding barn doors. They are really too heavy and difficult for me to move around. I was disappointed by the small passage area that seemed to be open when two doors were hung in the space as bypass doors. I was very disheartened by the whole effort and wrote my son to help me just get rid of all these crazy unwieldly doors! Then I spent hours shopping online and at the Home Depot and Lowes apps but could not find 32″ rustic looking doors. I was not anxious to redesign a 36” door kit either.
The next day I put up the barn door rail just to try one of the doors. Amazingly enough it was not too difficult to install a wood board header which I had from another project I had taken apart and the rail. The J style rollers were also easy to put on the door. Dave helped me lift it onto the rail and I thought it looked OK, and much better than I thought it did just propped in place.
I ordered a second rail set and just one U shaped bracket for a bypass door on one side of the opening. Both came in a couple of days. The U shaped bracket was too narrow for my very wide handmade doors.
It has 3″ clearance but it must be installed at least 5″ above the first rail which was higher than my header board covered. The metal certainly was heavy enough to carry the load if I had bought five, enough for each bolt in the second rail. But five of these were almost as expensive as a full bypass set for the opening!
I decided to install a matching header board on the kitchen side and the second door there. It was even easier than the first since I had already done one. Even though I hung the door backwards so the pull was on the wrong side, it didn’t take long to switch the J brackets to the other side.
But the gap was so wide my plan to use 2 x 4’s was not going to work. I went out to my wood pile and found a nice cedar fence board that seemed the right width. Then I “borrowed” another from Dave’s spare wood.
These are about 1 x 6 and there is a remaining gap but it still affords privacy and blocks the view to the family room. I plan to put a trim piece on each door to hide the hinge mortises. I also bought some small non swivel casters because I can’t easily put a glide in the floor. I have just enough space to install these. Although the doors are so heavy they don’t swing much, the wheels should stabilize them.
I had figured the depth of this caster in addition to the height of the door to determine the rail position.
I was pleased that both doors moved to either side seems to give plenty of passage space.
An easy and inexpensive way to hold the doors closed was a pair of iron hook and eye clasps and the pulls are an affordable sliding door set.
I also have fancier bolts for these doors too but the problem of what to install in this space is solved for now.
The hall stair nosing was cracked and becoming a trip hazard. I had already replaced one of the edges with a dark bamboo piece that I purchased at a Repurposed Materials auction. I have a couple of 8 piece boxes of these so it was no problem to get the materials ready to replace the broken ones. This task was on my list but it did not come to the top until my grandson started nagging me about it. He tripped on the stair one day and I said I would replace the edge. When he came over again he asked why I had not yet replaced it! So he is a good reminder.
The edge under the stair nose is very narrow. I tried 1/8″ trim and it was too thick. Somewhere I have some oak edge tape that I will use instead. Once I find it!
I glued the nosing on with liquid nails so I used some tile to hold the boards down. They feel pretty sturdy now.
A former owner tiled the steps but not the bottom one. I like the tile even though I would have put it on all four steps.
We severely reduced the size of the original utility room to make room for a dining area and to move the kitchen into the space. But in approximately a 6’x10’ room we fit in a stacking washer and dryer, a small chest freezer, the boiler/hot water heater, its valves and pumps, a utility sink and our water storage treatment equipment.
Needless to say there is not a lot of room for storage. But many sundry things get stored in there. All cleaning supplies, laundry detergent, buckets, extra hangers, rags, mops, and whatever we can stuff in there. It was a normal January day but I had an idea. I am a big fan of rolling carts. I have two in the garage for tools. Getting them out of the way is really easy. I had one in the front mudroom closet but decided I would make better use of the closet without the large rolling cart. So I transferred the tools and miscellaneous to shelves in the closet or the garage. It’s kind if a sad thing to move messes around and the cart is a little large for the utility room. But I totally filled it with the stuff piled in the room.
Now it is easier to get to stuff and easier to roll it out of the way when I need to change water filters or work with the valves or water treatment system.
I had to drain the spa because the winter weather is unpredictable and I did not want the pipes to crack. My planned repair did not work. I ordered the new spa heater from Acura Spa but it was cold and cloudy the day after it arrived. I waited an extra day for the sun to be shining as I worked. Although I didn’t know it at the beginning I had to remove the entire spa pack to remove the heater. Of course I had the power shut off to the spa. Luckily the spa plumbing had two gate valves to stop the water flow.
Disconnecting the heater was not a terrible job but I needed help loosening one of the unions. After a little lubricant and a stronger grip Dave got it loose.
Once the thing was removed I noticed some goop between the board and the heater.
The heater was held in by the wiring and a few screws. When I got it all apart I saw that the control board had been burned right through where heater 1 was connected. The insulation on the wire was cracked and disintegrated and it had disintegrated some wires around it.
Joe the spa guru from Acura Spa told me the bolts could vibrate loose if I didn’t have them tightened enough but I had to work to loosen the bolts so I’m not sure that was the problem. I suspect the wiring insulation was old and failed. It appeared to be failing in another area too. The heater elements did not look burnt out.
At this point there was nothing I could do with the new heater. So I called Acura Spa support and eventually decided to return the heater and buy a whole new spa pack. No heater meant the water had to be drained from the spa. If it was July it would be different but it was late January! Although we have been having unseasonably warm weather. It was 62 degrees today on Feb 1st! The first night when I realized I could not fix the spa I just opened the pump side gate valve and used a 6″ pipe under the union opening to drain the water out of the spa cabinet. The drain spigot does not work when the pipes are disconnected. That left about 6-8 inches of water in the spa the next day. So I opened the second gate valve but not much more water drained out. It was time to pump out the rest. I have a sump pump for the sump in the house but it has been disconnected so I thought it would be perfect. It was not.
I had a hard time getting it to stand up and when I got it situated it barely pumped. The motor worked but even when I disconnected the long hose for a short one and left it all night it didn’t drain. I also have a Harbor Freight pump that I bought for the chilling project and I had picked up a foot valve at some point on clearance. It still took me several hours to find piping that would work to drain the rest of the water. I had the pump instructions so I knew I had to prime it with a Y shaped inlet/outlet. I was lucky to have one of these too so that I could hook up a hose to prime the pump. Then the plug for the prime was missing so I hunted up a cork that fit. These were time consuming issues. By the time I got the pump set up it was dark so I let it run overnight but that night it got below freezing and I woke to an icicle in the end of the drain hose though water was still dripping out. It did not seem to hurt the pump as the water in the hot tub was down to an inch or two and it was not frozen.
The next step was using a shop vac to suck up the rest of the water and to blow water back through the jets. I tried leaving the cover off the vacuum tank drain so I would not have to stop and empty it but that ruined the suction.
I could not find the blower attachment but I found a pipe that fit over the blower outlet and I used that to shoot air into all the jets and the filter piping. I read that removing the spa filter is a good idea so I did that too. I left the tub dirty. The vac didn’t suck up dirt after the water was gone and I’ll have to clean it again before I refill it with water. But now if the weather turns to freezing for a few weeks the tub plumbing should be ok.
Unfortunately the control board on our ERV has been fried since last summer. It was probably due to several experiments trying to get the Lutron Grafix 0 to 10 voltage dimmer to work with the ERV. My son bought a new board for me over a year ago but he also had a busy year. (Moving here!) He just got around to installing it last month.
The ERV worked again with the new board but I lost the original controller for the system. (I packed it away someplace safe!) He had to hook up the humidistat in the bathroom to turn on the unit. It is connected to the boost control so that runs the ERV at full power.
But my son is also interested in setting up the NEST thermostat control. After quite a bit of testing he found that both Nests I had tried to use to control the ERV fan had broken electronics to the G or the fan connection. They still work fine for the call for heat. So he connected one of the inner rings from a Nest that has not been broken. But that is not the only step in getting the Nest to work with the ERV. He is going to add a relay to the system. That will allow the ERV to be turned on from the living room Nest thermostat fan control. Using IFTTT the Foobot air quality monitor could turn on the Nest fan when air quality is low.
Next perhaps he will tackle the 0-10 volt system to see if that can control the ERV too. Nice to have someone more knowledgeable than I am to figure out and fix the problems I created.
Last year I purchased a wifi controller for the spa so that I could set the temperature from my phone instead of having to go outside. Although the device did not seem difficult to install, it required opening the spa cabinet and removing the protective wire covering and insulation to get to the controls. So I didn’t install the system for over a year. Oh well it was a busy year.
I had to open the spa to get to the controls to order the new heater though so I figured it was a good time to install the new wifi device. The most difficult part was reaching the cable that runs from the control pad on top to the equipment controller. I had to move apart the insulation and wire cover at the top as well as over the controller.
Then I had to disconnect the cable which required removing even more insulation as it entered at the side of the controller. A cap was screwed over the connector that was difficult to remove as there was little room between the side of the equipment and a valve. Unplugging the cable required undoing a clamping system which was difficult to see but I finally figured it out.
I had to reroute the cable from the wifi control to the side of the controller and get the new one plugged in and re-clamped. Then I rerouted the topside control cable to the inside of the wifi control and plugged it in. The instructions say not to position the wifi control with the water from the spa blocking the signal so I placed the wifi control outside the spa cabinet. I’m guessing it is not weather resistant so it will need a weather cover of some kind.
Once the power was turned back on I was pleased that the equipment re-started without an issue. Then the task of connecting the wifi to our modem was relatively straightforward. I had to be close to the wifi unit to pick up its wifi signal but once I entered the device IP and found our wifi modem on the list I was able to connect it and received an email to register to get the wifi information from the spa control. Then the web site could be read from inside the house. Pretty cool actually.
On New Year’s Day we used the spa and I noticed it was losing heat while it was open even though I had turned up the thermostat while we were using it. I noticed a day or two later that the temperature was dropping and also that the electricity use was lower.
Unfortunately I tried to order a new heater but I had the wrong email address then we went out of town and I didn’t notice that my message bounced. Then I sent it again with full images and they bounced from a full mailbox. Probably because the images were too large. Finally after our return home I was able to send an email to the right address and with text information and order a new heater. I hope it gets here quickly as the water temperature is only in the 40’s.
While we were gone half of the lid blew completely off. That is a first. The cover is wearing out and the strap holding it down tore off. So the little heat the spa was holding was lost and it has not regained temperature. It appears that both heaters may be shot at this point because the two lower indicator lights are not lighting up.
I’m hoping we can get it fixed before it has to be drained to keep it from freezing.
It’s difficult not to be pleased to see the fireplace boiler working as planned in its new surround. The wood fire exudes such peace and tranquility on a snowy winter evening and adds heat to the radiant system. Directing heat to the water and radiant system means the fireplace does not overheat the room. The outside air piped into the stove means that the room does not get drafty as air rushes in to replace the oxygen used by the fire. Turning on the system switch starts the primary pump, sending water through the stove, preparing the stove to have a fire started. As the fire heats up the circulating water the aquastat turns on the secondary pump sending hot water to the heat exchanger in the utility room.
In order to use the heat, the main heating system pumps must be running. I have to create a call for heat by raising the temperature in the rear of the house which opens that zone.
The call for heat turns on the boiler system and its secondary pump.
The boiler receives warmed water from the heat exchanger which turns off the gas heat because it believes the water is at heating temperature. The stove heats up the circulating water. I can move the TV out of the way to see the pressure and temperature gauge.
The red indicator is set to 15 lbs pressure which is about atmospheric pressure. The stove is designed to heat at that pressure and the safety pressure relief will pop off at 30 psi which is also atmospheric pressure. The gauge is reading below the red indicator at 13 lbs. The temperature dial is under the pressure reading. It reads 110 degrees. That warm water will cool in the heat exchanger sending warmed water to the boiler. The boiler modulates it’s firing due to the warmed return water, even turning off depending on the outside temperature. The design temperature for the radiant heating system is 87 degrees. That means that if the temperature in the pipes is 87 degrees it is warm enough to heat the house down to an outside temperature of zero. The stove is only capable of about 26000 btu so it’s appropriate to send the warm water to only one zone. Since it is also ultra high efficiency and emits very few particulates this contribution to a snowy afternoon and evening is a thing of beauty.
It took a couple days around the Christmas holiday to get the stove reconnected. The main circulating pump needed to have its water pipes reconnected and the wiring had been disconnected from the main pump, the aquastat controller and the automatic mixing valve.
The pipe to the hot water overflow tank was too short for the new configuration and getting the old pipe out was an exercise in contortion. Sharkbite connectors need steady pressure on the clamping ring and pulling pressure on the pipe to disconnect. I use vice grips in the opening of the pipe to pull it out of the connector. I have both the removal tongs and the rings and I use whichever one works best. Usually switching back and forth between the two.
The pipes are a bit manueverable because some are PEX and some are copper. Typically the hot water piping is copper and the cold is PEX. In order to get the pipes lined up I had to add some new pipe and take some old out.
I took photos of the wiring as I disconnected it so that I would not have to figure it out from scratch again.
The white wire from the pump has a dark marking meaning it connects to power black and the yellow connects to white. The aquastat has three connections and I use two that turn on the pump when the pipe reaches the set temperature. I had reduced that from 120 degrees to 90 degrees quite some time ago. The design temperature for the radiant system is only 87 degrees so when the fireplace boiler water reaches 90 it is hot enough to circulate to the heat exchanger for the modulating boiler and the system piping. I also had to tape the mixing valve sensors to the pipes. One measures the return water temperature and the other the heated water temperature.
After reconnecting the wiring and replacing the covers, I was about finished. I ran the pump for awhile until all the air escaped from the pipes and stove. The air stops hissing out of the escape nozzle and the sound of the pump changes when the air is out.
The overflow tank that was on the left side of the system does not fit behind the cabinet. So I had to extend the overflow piping and place the safety tank right in front of the rest of the equipment. At least in this position it will be easy to empty if it ever holds water from the pressure relief valve. I did not have any more 3/4″ PEX so I salvaged a piece of 3/4″ copper from our stash of extra pipe. I’d like to create a door from the two cabinet doors to hide the equipment. So I have one propped in front of the equipment side.
I had to move the rug over slightly as it curled up at the cabinet leg. So I took advantage of having all the furniture moved to rearrange the room. Now there are more comfortable spots that have a good view of the TV.
There was a balmy break in the December weather. We have been enjoying temperatures in the 50’s and 60’s. So it was perfect for getting back to work on the fireplace boiler. I decided to use flat straight tile on the sides of the cabinet. I found some in dark brown to match the wood and long enough to prevent seams.
This time I used my hand held wet saw to cut the tile and I seemed to get much less dirty.
I cut and polished a granite mantle from a piece left from the bathroom remodel. That was glued to the metal crosspiece. And I cut the piece of cabinet back for the TV mount. It rests on top of the mantle and I made sure it fit before I took it out to finish putting more cement board protection inside the cabinet.
I figured I would need six rock tiles to cover the fireplace face. But I bought two boxes of tiles so eight of them. Nothing broke irretrievably so I have two tiles left over.
I also cut the side narrow tiles from one piece so I have almost a full long tile left too.
I measured multiple times for the TV mount because the area was narrow and the TV would just fit. Unfortunately the mount ended up about an inch too low so the TV actually sits on the mantle when retracted fully.
When pulled out it dips below the mantle.
The mount is bolted through the back board and that is screwed to two metal studs installed inside the cabinet. In order to see the TV from the love seat along the room’s back wall it has to be extended and tilted away from the back board. But the mount is designed to do that. I still have to treat the stone with sealer and hook up the boiler piping for the water and the electrical connections. Then next time it snows I can build a test fire.
I took another detour while my son and his family were out of town for a Christmastime trip. The old tile floor in the family bathroom was green shiny imitation marble. It was very slippery for a bathroom floor. And it was quite bold. It needed to be replaced. The tile they wanted was very expensive so we decided to try waterproof laminate instead. Sometime in the future it should be easy to replace.
First I removed the baseboards.
Then the tile was relatively easy to take off since it was glued to the subfloor.
I was tremendously fortunate to have a helper for this project, a neighbor and friend who was available to spend several days on this and other projects in the house. She carried ALL the broken tile downstairs to the trash.
My first task after the tile was removed was to clean up mold that was growing under the tile next to the tub. I just used bleach and it cleared it right up. Then I removed the old caulk where the tub met the floor and replaced it with a bead of silicone. I allowed that to set up for 24 hours before proceeding.
I also had to clean up mold and subfloor rot at the toilet flange. The flange was at floor level and the tile cut around it but the wax ring was not flattened allowing some effluent to escape around the toilet. That had rotted the floor under the tile.
Finding issues like these really help reassure you that the project is necessary. I cleaned this up with bleach then scraped off any rot from the floor and treated it with some green copper wood preservative.
The next step was to remove the adhesive which was just a muscle job of scraping the glue off the subfloor. It took several days to get most of the glue off the floor.
Then it was ready to lay the underlayment for the laminate. I chose a thinner underlayment so that the final floor was not too high.
I had to go back to the store to buy the special underlayment tape. It is very thin and will not cause a bulge in the layer. I placed the underlayment under the toilet flange. I was going to replace the flange but I could not remove it so I scraped and painted it with rustoleum. I had removed the screws so could lift it enough to get the underlayment underneath the flange. When I re-installed the toilet I tried a flange extension but it was too high. So I screwed a stainless steel flange over the existing flange which raised it a little bit and allowed me to use the foam toilet gasket. I like foam gaskets better than wax because they allow me to reposition the toilet easily.
When the underlayment was finished I was able to start cutting and laying the first boards. We decided to lay the boards parallel with the tub to make the job easier. Most photos show laminate in bathrooms laying perpendicular to the doorway but that would mean cutting several boards up against the tub. We decided that would be difficult and there was advice to lay the boards parallel to the door to make the room look larger too. So that is what we chose to do.
I used shims to keep the boards away from the walls and tub. Even though the boards have a waterproof face, I was interested in guarding against water seeping into the cracks and buckling the floor. So I followed some online advice to put silicone on the lip between each board and completely around the floor perimeter. But I was having a great deal of trouble trying to get the first boards to lock together. They were leaving a space that was annoying but the more I banged on them the less they wanted to shim up.
Luckily my helper was stronger and more persistent that I was. She finally got the boards to lock as we stood on them to keep them from popping apart.
She also helped me decide how to place the seams so that they didn’t line up too closely. We had to figure it out on paper for the best use of the remaining boards. Then she banged all the rest of the boards into place while I measured and cut them.
Finally the boards were all in place and we used almost all 10% of the contingency I ordered. There were only scraps left. The entire perimeter and around the toilet flange got a bead of silicone. I attempted to cover the pulpy edge of the flooring completely.
I was able to paint the baseboards in the garage in my painting tent with a small heater running so the temperature was good for painting. There were a few pieces of baseboard missing so I also cut those and fit them and I used some vinyl 3/4 round at the base of the tub and vanity. I had bought the vinyl from craigslist for another project and had plenty left for the bathroom.
The job took the entire 10 days that the family was out of town but it was nice to come home to a new bathroom floor!
I started a new project that I have had in mind for several years. I have loved Old Hickory furniture ever since we visited the Old Faithful hotel in Yellowstone National Park when we were first married. It is made in Indiana and has been in production since the 1800’s. I bought a side table years ago at a country auction. And I began purchasing some of the pieces in Arizona by finding a huge TV cabinet at an extreme discount in 2004. The doors did not fit exactly but the heftiness of the piece was impressive.
It is such a large piece that I have had trouble fitting furniture around it in the living room.
Finally I moved it so that it partially blocked off the hallway.
The new position allowed the best view of the new/used TV I bought when the monitor we had been using lost its audio.
The original plan for the stove was to build a wire frame and cover it with stucco to look like a kiva fireplace. That is such a homey look. But eventually I got the idea to combine the huge cabinet and the stove and still have the TV in the cabinet.
I delayed working on the plan because it seemed like a huge project. The cabinet is heavy and I knew I had to cut it in the living room creating quite a bit of dust. But after I finished the pillar I really wanted to move on to the another finish job in the room.
The boiler stove does not get hot to the touch. So the cabinet does not need the typical clearance between the flammable sides and the stove. I had a plan to dissipate the heat in the cabinet. I purchased ceramic fence insulators.
My plan was to use 1/4″ cement board to protect the wooden sides and space it away from the wood so air would be able to circulate around it and cool the sides.
But first I had to take the cabinet apart. The TV was relocated temporarily to a table on the other side of the room. And I began to remove the interior drawers, shelves and screws.
Once I had the cabinet apart I slid it over to the stove to calculate where the back of the stove had to be cut to allow it to push back to the wall and over the stove.
Then I used the reciprocating saw to cut through the wood. I thought it was oak plywood but upon further inspection realized the cabinet is oak veneer pressboard. But it is still very heavy.
Next I had to cut the middle shelf completely out in order to fit the cement boards at the sides and open the stove door. I left as much cabinet as I could in order for it to remain sturdy.
In order to get the cabinet pushed back over the stove I had to disconnect the plumbing and cut a hole in the side for the equipment to fit. Luckily I figured out how to disconnect the plumbing without having to remove the pump. I had to shift the cabinet back and forth to get the back leg around the equipment first.
Since I used shark bites it was possible to disconnect the piping and I will be able to reconnect it in its new location. Next I was able cut the metal studs to hold the cement board for the stone tile.
It was easier to remove the studs to install the cement board on the insulators. I still had to maneuver the drill around the stove. It helped that the cabinet can slide back and forth to gain space to work. Then I screwed the studs in with 1/2″ self tapping screws.
The most difficult part of the job was reconnecting the chimney. The pieces fit together very tightly and I had to try to line up the old screw holes. Where I could not use the existing holes I broke two drill bits making new holes for the screws. It took me all day to jockey the pipe enough to get it reconnected and screwed back together. While I was installing the pieces I cleaned the creosote from the inside. It was good to see that there was very little creosote in the pipe.
I temporarily placed some LED candles where the mantle will be. The TV will hang from an articulating arm installed above the mantel on a piece of the cabinet cut from the back panel. I need to have the TV swing away in order to check the pressure and temperature dial. After a few years of use though the stove does not exceed a safe pressure.
The beauty of the design is that the entire fireplace surround can be slid back from the stove just in case the stove needs some kind of maintenance that I can’t reach from the side opening. I’m very excited about the new look and additional area that this use frees up in the living room. Plus the style is exactly the cabin rustic I was hoping to have.
When I finished the pillar I realized the stone is another heat sink in the living area for the warmth of the sun. After the stone was all glued on, it took a few days to scrub the stone. I used the same Zep neutral cleaner I use on the concrete floor and wore out several pieces of 3M scrubbing pads. I cut the larger size into 1/8ths. My fingers also got a beating. I used delorean gray grout caulk to fill in some of the larger cracks. I did not really like how it looked though. It almost seems unnecessary to fill in gaps. I had some spray on sealer that was easy to apply. The color of the stone does not seem quite as bright as I had hoped but I’m ok with the muted colors. It looks so much better than the 2×4’s. This is a floating wall post surround so the tile does not rest on the floor. It is just glued to the pillar.
The pillar is a good width for running the wiring inside for the Internet and electrical. The stone also fits nicely around the cabinet.
I’m happy to finally see some progress in the house. And having another heat sink is a great use of materials.
The weather this November has been colder than usual. We have already had several snowstorms with the typical melt in between. The challenge was to cut the faux stone tiles outside while the weather was warm enough.
At first I used the grinder to make dry cuts but that made so much dust and I didn’t want to try to wear a mask on and off, in and out of the house to fit each piece. The weather got warm enough to use the tile saw which I have covered but have been storing outside. That proved a challenge too because the saw spit water and dust all over me. Otherwise it worked well except for when I had to cut the underside of a corner tile that didn’t fit under the saw body. So I used the grinder for some cuts.
Then out of the blue of course the switch stopped connecting and the saw would not run. I was able to take it apart, see the burnt out contacts, and buy another switch but didn’t want to take time during the good weather to fix the saw. I waited for the next break in the weather and used a small 7″ wet tile saw that belongs to my son in law. This is the one I used to fix the tile floor at my son’s house this summer. It also worked fine for days although it was even worse at spitting dust and water on me. I wore a rain jacket and had to wash my clothes on stain wash. My hair was filled with dust too even though I wore the hood. It got several double washings!
Eventually the clay from the stone tiles jammed the blade. I had to take the saw apart and figure that out. While it was apart and getting cleaned I bought a new blade and installed it. I was hoping the new blade would cut without so much clay debris but it didn’t.
I could only do a couple of rows at a time because the tile needed to be shimmed and I thought multiple rows would make the lower rows slide down.
I was able to do two to three rows of tile each working day. That was thirty or so cuts of tile unless I broke one or needed to cut again to get the right size. About all I could handle in a day anyway. The pillar got covered slowly.
After another weather break I got a few more days of work in and the day before the next big snowstorm I had to run and get three more tiles. Then I was still cutting them as it got dark outside and I finally quit about 6 pm. I was tired and decided to finish the next morning.
The next day with snow starting to fall I cut the last few tiles to fit around the router cabinet. The last of the tiles were glued in with the tile adhesive and the pillar stone was laid!
Now it just has to be cleaned and sealed.
A friend posted a photo of the fireplace at Mount Princeton hot springs near Salida.
I’m pretty sure it is the same material. I noticed that no expensive corners were used, just the method of double stacking the corners that I figured out while I was working on the pillar. I never would have noticed that otherwise. I like the way they used the slate to inset the fireplace and build the hearth. I hope our pillar looks as nice.
The corners were twice as expensive as the flat pieces and I bought twice as many. Probably six boxes of four, plus four boxes of flats and then the three I needed to finish. I could not use all corners on the pillar because it would have wasted far too much tile so I figured out how to alternate the corners. The total tile cost was over $250. But the best part is that this is more finish work–maybe the house will have all its trim this time next year.
The installation of the tile is a matter of cutting it to fit and mortaring it to the cement board. However, there are challenges involved in cutting and fitting.
The first block I cut with a grinder and while tapping off the cut piece the entire corner fell apart in my hands. I don’t know if that was because it was a weak piece or if the tapping hit just right.
The weather has moderated for a few days so I decided to try the wet saw instead. I realized that a straight cut would not look very good on the wall with a four tile seam. I noticed the full tiles staggered the seams with two tiles above and two below instead of every other tile. I copied this way to stagger the seams.
By staggering the cuts I was able to fit the stones without such long vertical seams. I had some acrylic tile adhesive on hand and mortar is more work to mix so I’m just using the adhesive for these tiles. For some short cuts I was able to use the dry grinder instead of the wet saw and so far I have not broken another tile with it.
The corner tiles can be difficult to cut with the tile saw because if it is not long enough or thin enough it does not allow the saw to pass over it. The prebuilt corners have tile blocks every other tile but I realized I could build some corners the same way the tiles are staggered by alternating the seam every two tiles. These are a little more squared off but using this technique in a few places is not too obvious a difference.
This will allow me to buy some flat tiles and lower the cost of the whole project. In order to keep the tiles level I am using some wide popsicle sticks that I had on hand. These are working better than the small tile separators that I have. I don’t want to grout this tile except in apparent gaps.
I think it will look nice and rustic and complement the decor in the living room. I want to finish before the weather gets cold again!
Not only was there not enough stone for the pillar but it was way too bulky to install in the house. So instead I am going to use it to cover the broken stucco on the garage wall. This pile was all the corners I had.
I had to knock the rest of the concrete wall away from the stucco wall. This is something I wanted to do for a long long time but it was never at the top of the list.
I was able to knock off the concrete with several blows of the sledge hammer. Then I dry piled the stone blocks up around the corner. Eventually I will mortar them into place.
The log railings next to the wall will hopefully be part of the front porch eventually. But that project is in the future.
I had to go shopping for another type of stone to cover the pillar. I shopped online and at tile stores and the local Floor and Decor had something in stock I thought would work well.
It seemed as if I would need to buy all corners for the pillar, of course corners are twice as expensive as the flat pieces. I tried stacking the corners to see what they might look like. The clearance sign is for a different stone.
Then I bought one corner to see how it might look at home. I also picked up a broken piece that I asked if I could have. This stone tile is a LOT less bulky than the stone blocks.
It’s pretty hard to tell what the whole pillar will look like in the stone tiles. I held up a piece to see if I liked the stone midway up the side.
We both liked it well enough and it appeared it would work for the pillar so I went back and bought 4 boxes of corners. I know I will need more but thought I would buy a few boxes and test the installation process.
I decided a long time ago to finish the sole exposed post in the house with stonework. My column is larger but this was the idea.
I was tired of looking at the 2 x 4 structure for the column. I had started covering the post a year ago and mounted a cabinet for the internet equipment.
I also had a few pieces of 1/4″ cement board already on the column.
I had enough cement board on hand to finish the job. One day last week I tackled this project and finished screwing the board on. I had to take a detour to buy 1″ drywall screws as I could not get the 1 1/4″ cement board screws all the way into the board.
Buying drywall screws was a turning point since I saved and reused all the screws from tearing out our old drywall. I still have longer screws from that project.
The next step was to uncover the faux stone that I purchased a few years ago and was moved around the garage a few times so that it was very buried. To do that I had to rearrange the mower side of the garage.
The shelves on the left were in front of the mower and the stone was behind that. Now the stone is at the front of the garage where it can be easily reached.
As I recall there were about 14 sq. ft. of stone in the purchase, that is not enough to cover the entire pillar. Plus it is a bit limited by how many corners are available. There are 7 lineal feet of those. I have not laid it out yet. I hope I have enough for at least 3 ft. of coverage. Another interesting project.
As time goes on I am involved in fewer projects at my son’s house. One of the last updates in the family bathroom was to change the dual flush unit in the tank. The dual flush button on the toilet was too difficult for a three year old to flush. It was a retrofit dual flush unit that used a two button flush. I just happened to have a bargain Restore dual flush unit that I never installed in our old toilet before I replaced it with a Niagara toilet.
As usual the project was much more difficult than I planned. The old unit had been installed with the overflow tube at an angle instead of parallel to the rear of the toilet. This particular toilet had a narrow tank front to back so the bulky dual flush unit could only be installed parallel to the back.
In order to reorient the flush valve seat and overflow tube I had to take the tank off the toilet. So I purchased a new gasket and bolt set and even a new filler valve.
The gasket and bolt set proved to be my undoing, however. I tried at least three times to use the new gasket and each time the tank leaked badly when I flushed it. The gasket rubber must have been too hard to compress with the bolts or I didn’t have the strength but finally I fished the old gasket out of the trash and used it again and it didn’t leak.
One of the other issues I had was that I had not properly identified that the flush valve had an angled seat.
I assumed it was a flat seal when it was actually angled. Once I figured that out I had to add a section to the bottom of the assembly that adapted to the angled seat. Time consuming. On this unit both flush volumes are adjustable which is a nice feature and setting them to the lowest successful flush for each type was not difficult. Water saving and easy to use is a good combination.
After a few hours of working on the toilet I was able to have my 3 year old grandson test the flush and it worked!
It is going to be hard to get in the swing of finishing projects at my house. I have enjoyed working on theirs so much. But it’s time to get back to work.
The large TV and its stand came from the apartment but the old couch had seen better days so it was donated and they wanted a simple, relatively firm couch in a light color. We found this one on Craigslist and it came with a “free” Ikea coffee table.
The couch was in great condition and also came with two throw pillows, the seller reduced the price but he was also on the third floor of an apartment complex. Luckily there were two of us to heft it out of the apartment and down the exterior staircase into the truck bed.
It was a perfect fit and just what they had in mind at least for the upcoming baby years. It’s a good napping couch. The cushions are firm enough to hold a body so it does not sink uncomfortably into the couch.
My son likes modern, my daughter-in-law a bit more traditional. When he saw this ad for side chairs they were the style he had always wanted. These came well-worn but at a reasonable price for this style even as copies.
There were quite well used with marred leather and some scratches on the plywood but they are very comfortable chairs. They are similar to recliners in comfort but not quite as pedestrian. They are being used in the living room and bedroom but my daughter-in-law is not as fond of them as my son. They may end up in one of his spaces.
They have purchased a couple of inexpensive end tables and have filled the house with beautiful plants which really livens up the bright space. They are making their new house their home.