LEED Awareness and Education

Increasing awareness for LEED, its mission, its requirements, the benefits and features is one of the categories for gaining points for LEED certification. I had an opportunity to talk about this project at the Fort Collins Sustainable Living Fair on Sept 20-21st. It was a great fair for many good ideas about sustainability; a chance to see lots of electric vehicles, greenhouse and growing ideas, vendors large and small, and exchange ideas with a like minded or just interested public.

I was in the Green Building Tent and presented our LEED Gut Rehab project from 3-4 on Sunday. There were about 10 attendees and I spoke about our project, our LEED provider, our design team, durability issues, and solutions. Featured solutions were the Waffle Mat system for dealing with our expandable soil problem, our radon mitigation research, our air intrusion solutions and other general information about starting and documenting a LEED project.

There were several good questions and it appeared some interest in the certification program for Homes including what to look for when purchasing a home for a gut remodel. I hadn’t really given that much thought but I emphasized looking at the whole property as much as the house. Solar orientation, water availability, site location from amenities like transportation and green space, etc.

Thanks to our friends, Chris and Tom, for putting us up for the weekend at their idyllic, ranch/homestead too!

Sustainability Fair Presentation

Sustainability Fair Presentation

Poster at Fair

Poster at Fair Presentation

Presentation Entry

Information at the presentation tent’s entry

Posted in Green Building Interests, LEED Project | Comments Off on LEED Awareness and Education

Home Comfort (in an unfinished house)

We are pretty comfortable here in this unfinished house. When we moved all our stuff to the garage, we decided to bring some furniture inside. Some of the old hickory was out in the garage and it is better to have it inside anyway. So we set up a living room space and a table and chairs in the unfinished area. Just this week I thought I would bring in the log furniture for the kitchen and start laying it out. I’m sure there will be changes but it is kind of fun to see the kitchen and living room taking some shape. This furniture is all used and it is being “repurposed” in our new home. We will gather it together and tarp it when we get to the drywall stage.

Living Room furniture

Living Room furniture

Living room with stove

Living room with stove

Kitchen view

Kitchen view

From dining area

From dining area

Bar table

Bar table

Cabinets

Cabinets

Posted in Design Style, Reduce Reuse Recycle | Comments Off on Home Comfort (in an unfinished house)

Washer/Dryer Temporary Install with Dryer Repair

We are now washing and drying clothes in our unfinished house. Of the appliances that came with the house; dishwasher, stove top, and built in oven, the washer and dryer are the only items that we didn’t donate to Habitat for Humanity. (We also kept the gas water heater thinking we will eventually use it for hot water storage.) We stored these appliances first in the garage and then in the garden shed. I was getting tired of taking our laundry out of the house to wash, even though the kids never seemed to mind. Since we are in remodeling mode for the long term, I decided to bring them inside and find out if they worked or not. Eventually we will replace them with Energy Star models but for now it is great to have this convenience again.

I had already hooked up a kitchen sink near the utility area and had to work around that and the existing gas pipes that will need to be moved, so the placement is not ideal but it will work for now.

Washer Dryer Install

Washer Dryer Install

I connected a washer kit to one of the water loop supplies and the drain kit to the stand pipe in the utility area. Then IĀ  reconnected the gas and flue to the dryer. To connect the washer supply kit I used the pex cinch clamps instead of sharkbites. The cinch clamps require a spear type of connection that the pex slips over and then the clamp is cinched together with a special tool. This type of connection is a cinch that is for sure!

Cinch ring connections for washer kit

Cinch ring connections for washer kit

I brought over one of the dangling electric lines to a new box and installed an outlet and cover. It was a 20 amp fused line that was originally in the utility room. The washer hookup is attached to the top of one of the water loop connections. There are two in the same area which helped turn this corner to cross the room as well as providing one supply for the bathroom and one for the utility room.

Electrical box and washer hookup

Electrical box and washer hookup

The drain kit was connected to a stand pipe that was vented with a roof air pipe to one further down the line, however, this vent is not necessary because there is a wet connection just down the pipe so it will be fine to disconnect it end with the stand pipe and reroute the vent pipes.

Washer hookups

Washer hookups (Ox Box from Supply House)

The temporary sink is actually hooked up to the original washer and dryer lines that are not part of the loop but extend from the boiler itself–this line provides hot water that is not tempered and is so close to the boiler that the water is hot immediately. However the washer is the first connection on the loop and it also has hot water flowing immediately–it is the far connections that have to wait for the hot water.

The plumbing inspector recommended we make more use of air inlets in addition to venting to the outside. This is the kitchen drain setup that was supposed to be the vent for the floor drain and will be enclosed in the utility room wall. Not all the pipes are glued so they can be reconfigured when the sink is moved.

Air inlet and kitchen drain

Air inlet and kitchen drain between washer and dryer

The washer connections all worked the first time. I cleaned up the washer, plugged it in, ran a load of just hot water and it was ready to go. The dryer hookup was a bit more tricky as I had to scrounge the original flue pipe, reconfigure it, and drill out some old rivets. The existing gas line was close and long enough so it was easy to use yellow gas tape, check for leaks, plug it in and start up the dryer.

Dryer Hookup

Dryer Hookup with bathroom water connections limiting its placement

Although the dryer tumbled when it was turned on, it didn’t heat up. Quick research on the internet turned up the most likely culprit, the igniter. Luckily this model had a small access door to the gas heat mechanism so the dryer did not have to be taken apart to fix it.

Dryer access door

Dryer access door

I ordered an igniter from Amazon because of their quick shipping. I couldn’t find a Maytag igniter with Prime so after more research I ordered a Whirlpool part as these are very common and do work across brands.

Dryer igniter

Dryer igniter replaced

Gas dryers are very simple and it was fun to learn about how they work. The igniter glows red and when it is hot enough a flame sensor opens the gas valve and the gas ignites. Then the igniter turns off and the gas burns until a temperature sensor is activated when the dryer is hot enough shutting off the gas. When the temperature drops, the sensor tells the igniter to glow again and the process is repeated. The igniter is very fragile so it is often the first part to break, especially if the dryer has been moved a couple of times like ours has. It would also be easy to replace the flame sensor and the coils in the gas valve, two other parts that could have been bad.

So now we are set to both wash and dry our clothes in our unfinished home. What luxury.

Posted in Appliances, Maintenance and Repair, Plumbing | Comments Off on Washer/Dryer Temporary Install with Dryer Repair

Distractions=Lack of Progress

OR–What we did instead of working on the house!

1. Kids bought a new house that needed a lot of work! Besides bath renovation we also helped paint and tear out old flooring.

Kid's new house--Wallpaper removal

Kids’ new house–Wallpaper removal

Master bath tear out

Master bath tear out

New tub main bath

New tub main bath

New floor main bath

New floor main bath

2. Renovated Arizona house in order to sell quickly. (We hoped!)

Interior paint

Had interior painted–took a long time–vendor delayed the job and sent non-pro workers–lots of redo required

New fans and some fixtures

Installed new fans and some new light fixtures–including one that “disappeared” after the painters removed it.

New front patio

New front patio started by landscapers

Refinished front door

Refinished front door, replaced door hardware, and had new carpet installed

Garage floor epoxied

Garage floor cleaned and epoxied, garage painted.

Cleaning and staging

Cleaning and staging

Stoop repaired and painted

Stoop repaired and painted

New entry patio

New entry patio and tons of landscaping done

We did sell the house about 2 weeks after it was listed, but then we waited 6 more weeks for the sale to go through. Still we were happy it sold and we can move on to other projects.

3. Went birthday camping!

RV at campground

RV at campground

Lake scene

Lake scene

RV across water

RV across water

4. Visted moms in New York and Chicago.

Mom in Chicago

Mom in Chicago

5. Helped fix up kids old house for sale.

Master bath redo with grout paint

Master bath redo with grout paint

Garage entry trim

Garage entry trim

Installed baseboards

Installed baseboards

6. Prepared RV for cross country trip.

New water pump and pressure tank

New water pump and pressure tank

Tried to repair awning

Tried to repair awning

7. Three week RV trip to Indiana and Illinois with grandkids!

Grandson's food list

Grandson’s food list

Getting started

Getting started

Resting at a playground

Resting at a playground

Watching movies

Watching movies

Indiana!

Indiana!

Another visit to Grandma Grand

Another visit to Grandma Grand

8. Another camping trip during the week of July 5th.

Columbine at Golden Gate Canyon State Park

Columbine at Golden Gate Canyon State Park

View from hike

View from hike

9. A month of preparing for our son’s wedding in California and the actual wedding!

Favors

Favors

Dramatic sticks for hall

Dramatic sticks for hall

Flower arrangements

Flower arrangements

Fascinators and carry sign for grandkids

Fascinators and carry sign for grandkids

Flowing arches

Flowing arches

Table decor

Table decor

The dress

The dress

 

The bouquets

The bouquets

Rehearsal

Rehearsal

The ceremony

The ceremony

Korean Paebaek Ceremony

Korean Paebaek Ceremony

10. An end of summer camping trip and visit with friends.

The beach

The beach

S'mores

S’mores

Hanging out

Hanging out with friends and fresh peach cocktails

Friends' garden

Friends’ garden–hope ours looks like this someday

Chickens!

Chickens!

Posted in Diversions | Comments Off on Distractions=Lack of Progress

Hot Water Recirculation Problem

Earlier when I had trouble with the hot water circulation pump breaking the boiler flow control, I decided to install a pressure regulator/reducer between the pump and the cold water input for the hot water side of the boiler and for this function I used a 1/2″ threaded Watts EB45 with settings between 10 and 70 psi. It ships at 45 psi. Although the boiler doesn’t specify the maximum psi input, I assumed that 45, which is a common household water pressure, would work fine. I also installed the pump a few feet above the incoming line–an idea I got from some online source–and installed a shutoff below it as recommended for maintenance and change out.

Taco 009 Stainless Pump

Taco 006 Stainless Pump (dark blue) Installed–Watts pressure reducer just visible on the left of the red tank.

At some point after the fix, the hot water recirculation was not working. I’m not sure when it quit but when I noticed we were not getting hot water after turning the pump on for a few minutes, I just unplugged the recirc pump.Ā  So we were washing our hands in cold water and collecting the 5 gallons of shower water that it took to feel hot water coming out of the faucet in a bucket and taking it out to the garden. Finally I had some time to troubleshoot the system.

At first I thought the pressure regulator was not high enough for the boiler to recognize the flow. But setting the pressure higher did not get the water heater to come on when the pump was on. I adjusted it back down, but now I have no idea now how low or high it is set!

Second, I thought it must be the pump. I had trouble with another ebay pump that I ordered so I thought it might just be a bad purchase and I looked for another recirculating pump that I could use instead. I settled on this Laing hot water pump, it has the energy saving ECM technology (Electronically Commutated Motor) and the E3 is the larger of the two models, able to pump more than 75′ of water circulation piping. It also has a variable speed setting to manually set it for the system that is using it. But a temperature sensor would have to be installed separately.

Laing E3 Pump

Laing E3 Pump

As I started to install the new pump, I noticed that the ball valve that isolated the pump for maintenance had been left OFF! So no wonder the pump was not starting the hot water boiler, it wasn’t the pump that was not delivering water, there was no water getting to the pump! I was lucky that the times that it was pumping without water flow did not wear out the pump. It actually worked fine when the valve was reopened. As there is a temp control on the pump, when the water reaches the preset temperature, the pump shuts itself off when plugged in directly, but there had to be another way to turn on the pump to initiate hot water.

The Taco D’Mand system had a wireless remote system to turn the pump on so I decided to replace the timer with a remote control system. I needed something that would work from the furthest bathroom so a simple lamp system didn’t seem powerful enough. I settled on the Skylink system and as an added benefit, the receiver (PA-318) allows for setting a time limit for the on signal.

Both the receiver and remote (TC-318-1) were reasonably priced on Amazon and the operating distance is rated at 500 ft. This system is working great. I set the timer for 15 minutes but the water gets hot about 5 minutes after pressing the remote, an easy wait to start taking a shower with no water waste. Since the pump shuts off when it reaches the design temperature, and on again when it gets cooler, we can just let it run for those 15 minutes until we are ready to shower.

Posted in Energy Efficiency, House Systems, Plumbing | Comments Off on Hot Water Recirculation Problem

Caulking and Insulation

As required by LEED, the outer shell must be fully sealed. All the sills, corners and rafters were recaulked–most were caulked on the original build but there were a few gaps.

Sill caulking

Sill caulking

Rafter caulking

Rafter caulking

Much of the Roxul rock wool was installed before the move. Two layers of 5.5″ in the ceiling and one layer of 5.5″ in the walls–R 46 and R 23 respectively.

Roxul installed

Roxul installed

Although some areas are not yet filled, there is quite a bit of insulation left. We estimate we over ordered about 6 23″ bales and maybe 3-4 16″ bales.

Roxul Remains

Roxul Remains

 

Posted in Air Intrusion/Thermal Envelope, Energy Efficiency | Comments Off on Caulking and Insulation

We’ve Moved!

Start of unloading the moving truck

Start of unloading the moving truck

And that is about all the progress that has been made on the energy efficient house, i.e. none!

We did the move ourselves of course and even with help from family it took three straight weeks of packing and cleaning. Then we drove a 24′ Penske truck from Tempe, Arizona to Arvada, Colorado and hired some movers to help us get everything into the garage. It was funny to help the movers as they kept having to take breaks (lunch and 2 o’clock) while they said that the contents of the truck “might not fit” into the garage. I was amazed at that notion since the garage is larger than inside area of the truck and it had all fit in the truck. But after about three hours they had muscled most of it into the space. We left the wheelbarrow and ladders outside. Later we had to move around some of the stuff to get to the tool cabinets etc. but now the garage is very packed with “stuff” from the move. Moving took almost all of March and I went back in April to get the house ready for sale which was another nightmare of workers being late and taking longer than they estimated and lifting a light fixture that they removed for the painting as well and all manner of other leftover stuff that went missing from the garage. I rented a small uhaul trailer and purchased and installed a hitch for the Impala and drove back to Colorado with the rest of the stuff by the first week of May.

Small trailer

Small uhaul trailer for things that we left behind the first time.

The most exciting news is that our kids bought a new house that was larger and much closer to us and the schools, but it was a short sale and left in a pretty big mess. So we pitched in and helped them get the house ready to move into and we are also helping with the old house to get it ready for sale. Between all this sprucing up our projects are going by the wayside. But our Arizona house is on the market finally and hopefully it will sell in the next month or two and give us capital to get things accomplished at a faster pace.

Posted in Diversions, Moving | Comments Off on We’ve Moved!

Web of Wires

Wiring Branches

Wiring and Gas Pipe Branches

Last spring when hopes were high for progress on the house, I had a couple of electricians give bids to rewire the house. We had hoped that by last fall the house would be ready for the rough in wiring. That just didn’t happen, although work progressed, it was slow.

The big question to address the wiring, is how to wire in the outside perimeter without compromising the air barrier and insulation value.

We have pulled all the wire back from the perimeter to a central corridor in the ceiling and will try to keep most of the new wiring out of the thermal envelope.

Wiring Core 1

Wiring Core in Living Area

Our plan is to insulate the ceiling corridor with xps or polyiso to the same R-value as the rock wool spaces.

Insulated Wiring Core

Insulated Wiring Core

Posted in Construction, Electrical, Energy Efficiency, House Systems, Reduce Reuse Recycle | Comments Off on Web of Wires

Pump Problems

Taco seems to be a well-respected name in water pumps. The 00 series is especially popular. These range from an 003 to an 013. Triangle Tube instructions recommend both the Grundfos and the Taco pumps. For a system the size of ours, they listed the 009 as having the right flow and pressure for the job.
These pumps are fully serviceable. They are easy to take apart and put in a new rotor and motor housing, however, the parts are a bit less than half the cost of a brand new pump.

Taco Pump Interior

Taco Pump Interior–this pump is cast iron. Ours is the stainless steel model.

The ceramic shaft, plastic wheel and metal casing are the replacement part, along with new bolts to hold the pump together.

Not all their 00 series pumps are flanged, some have pipe fittings instead. We have two Taco pumps with pipe fittings, the 009 which is the primary pump and the 006 that is the hot water recirculation pump. Flanges are easier to attach and detach the pump, but the flanges are an extra cost, while the threaded pumps don’t require that extra part.

I bought all three pumps from vendors on ebay. They all pumped water when I hooked them up. I even set up a system for testing them since the pump that I took off the old hot water recirc system does not pump water. So I tested the other two with the same hose/bucket system. But after installation the 011 stopped running. It seemed that it was “burned out” by running it when the boiler pump was not running. That was because of the way I wired it which I will explain in a later post.

Then I burned it out a second time! The first time I purchased the rebuild kit and did the simple repair, but when I bought the kit, I also bought a brand new 011 pump. I figured I could use it on the wood fired boiler system AND have it as backup. Before a week was out, the backup pump had to be installed and now I have another broken one. The question is whether it was overheating because it was not getting enough flow through it, or whether I should also have replaced the capacitor. I have not decided whether to buy another rebuild kit and capacitor yet or not.

I have read that these can go out after 7 or 8 years and having an extra rebuild kit on hand is a good idea. Because it is always when the temperatures are coldest that the heating system breaks down. Murphy’s law is part of owning a home I think. For right now, there is a brand new 011 in place in the system. The only difference that I noticed between the older and newer pumps that I could tell was that the older one had a metal information label on the electrical box and the newer one has a paper label on the bottom.

Posted in Condensing Modulating Gas Boiler, House Systems, Maintenance and Repair | Comments Off on Pump Problems

Chronicle of Errors

I mentioned there were several things wrong with the first installation of boiler piping. When tested, water was not getting through the system and I believed the pump was just not strong enough to circulate through all the radiant loops. That would be solved by changing the simple single looped system to the more common and complex primary/secondary piping.
After pulling out the pipes and rerouting into the new configuration, there was still a problem with the water getting through the system. It turned out that the valves are configured to open only one way. At some point I was looking for the recommended pump location and got into my head that I could assume the valves flowed down. I did remember the valves should be on the cold side to limit wear and tear from the hot water. But it was not obvious to me which way the valves opened. I thought since the lever that holds them open manually was on the bottom of the valve, that the flow was from top to bottom. Incorrect assumption!

Honeywell Valve Diagram

Honeywell Valve Diagram

Of course I was not looking at this obvious diagram, but at this installation.

Original Boiler Setup

Valve Piping Covered by Insulation

If you know what you are looking at in the above photo, you can see that the air scoop and expansion tank are on the lower pipe. Typically they are on the hot side, but NOT ALWAYS in older, existing installations. So I assumed (again) that the higher pipe was the hot supply.

The flow is shown in this photo and is obvious now that you know the valves flow upward.

Valve Flow

Valve Flow

The lower pipe is the hot supply with the water flowing directly into the radiant/registers. On return the Honeywell flow valves are controlled electrically based on thermostat temperatures. The return water can also bypass the valves to bleed the system of air.

The major error in the piping was that twice both in the simple loop and in the first attempt at primary/secondary, I plumbed the hot into the upper pipe. After some consideration, I realized the error and replumbed all the piping so that the lower pipe was the hot supply. This meant remounting the secondary pump and I had to buy more 1″ copper and more fittings to reconfigure everything. The pipes seem more complicated than they should be but I could not figure out how to clear up what is a typical rats nest created by an inexperienced plumber, but at least now the plumbing is correct and the water flows properly.

New Challenger Boiler Piping

New Challenger Boiler Piping

Posted in Condensing Modulating Gas Boiler, Energy Efficiency, House Systems, Radiant Heat | Comments Off on Chronicle of Errors

Potential Energy

I originally thought our remodel was a shoe-in for a LEED gut remodel project. The concrete slab on the floor of most of the home had to be taken out and replaced. This gave us the opportunity to upgrade with more energy efficient systems and materials. Where we eventually land on the LEED scale of things is still debatable, but there has also been the question of whether we can be a LEED project at all. The “gut” of gut remodel hinges on the language in the document that describes eligible LEED for Homes projects. The LEED for Homes Guidelines for 2008, Document 5482 states:

Gut / rehabilitation
Projects that are characterized as ā€˜substantial gut/rehab’ can participate in LEED for Homes, as long as all of the prerequisites can be met. In order to qualify as a ā€˜substantial’ gut/rehab, a project must replace most of the systems and components (e.g. HVAC, windows) and must open up the exterior walls to enable the thermal bypass inspection to be completed.

We definitely are replacing most of the systems, but we were not planning to tear up the crawlspace area of the house. That means that the drywall and existing insulation and thermal bypass layers would remain. Our provider questioned what was meant by “open up” to complete the thermal bypass inspection. This inspection is required for the Energy Star thermal bypass checklist which is part of the LEED Energy and Atmosphere Credit category. The insulation installation is classified according to the quality of the install, gaps in the application etc. Since in some cases the walls cannot be seen, the quality must be determined differently as in this explanation from the Energy and Atmosphere Item 2: Insulation

GutRehabThermalChecklist

Gut Rehab Thermal Checklist Requirement

Our project does not remove the drywall or replace the insulation in the crawlspace area of the house. This is a relatively small area inside the red outline in the picture below. Although this is a substantial gut remodel regarding most of the systems etc., this part of the home has walls that are inaccessible. However, due to the discretion given to the rater, the home could still qualify for LEED for Homes as long as the prerequisites are met.

78thPl_remodel sections

78thPl_remodel sections

In this area of the house, there are walls that are underground (about 3/4 of the north and east walls.) These walls are insulated on the exterior so somewhat accessible for inspection. About 1/4 of the walls are above ground as well as the south clerestory and roof in one bedroom. I believed that I could have insulation blown into these walls to satisfy the rater that the thermal bypass and insulation quality had been met. However, since this is at the rater’s discretion, our rater told me that this was not something the company had ever done. They are not certified to judge this area by thermal imaging either. For these walls, our rater will not be able to judge the quality of the insulation install or the seamlessness of the air barrier. Although thermal imaging can check for a consistent air barrier, use of this technique is at the LEED provider’s discretion.

If the rater is not able to verify that a suitable continuous air barrier exists, the project is disqualified based on this prerequisite. In addition to this basic threshold, the installatoin has to be gap free. Our provider has never graded insulation better than the lowest level of installation if they could not see it. So this part of the house will have the lowest insulation score. That will be entered into the energy model with the rest of the house and hopefully the software will show that the house maintains an excellent air and thermal barrier by its overall performance.

This is the policy of our provider. After some email discussion, they have given us the go-ahead to complete the renovation without removing this drywall and establish that there is a suitable air barrier in the existing construction, with the understanding that we will be downgraded wherever the insulation is not completely exposed. The original house was built to higher standards than a typical home so the existing walls in the crawlspace area of the house are 6″ to 8″ thick and have fiberglass batt, plastic sheeting, drywall, etc. to create the air barrier, and the roof has asphalt shingles as well as the 12 inches of fiberglass batt in the clerestory plus the extra layers of batts that I installed in the attic area. From what I have read, no one layer is completely responsible for the air barrier, instead the entire system must be continuous and free of air infiltration.

Since we are replacing the insulation and air barrier in the main part of the house, the rater will be able to model a higher level of installation in most of the building. In my estimation, tearing out drywall in the crawlspace area that does not need to be redone due to soil expansion damage seems adverse to the LEED principles of green remodeling, reducing materials, reusing, and recycling wherever possible, so I am accepting this potential reduction in performance as a reasonable tradeoff.

UPDATE: Energy Logic has researched the issue and USGBC will accept thermal imaging from a Level II certified thermographer as evidence of continuous insulation coverage. But I have to find the thermographer. I called around and found most energy audit companies only have a Level I thermographer but our electrician’s company has a thermographer who is ready to take the exam for Level II so hopefully thermal imaging will improve our rating for the existing insulation install.

I’m choosing to be upbeat about the future and will just do everything we can to make this project qualify and gain the necessary LEED points to score in the certified range. In this case I think we solved the issue of whether we will meet the prerequisites for Energy and Atmosphere.

But while discussing this issue we realized that the drywall in the back bathroom does not meet the minimum standard of paperless drywall in all wet areas. That means that the bathroom drywall, at least in the tub area WILL have to be replaced so the tile will have to come out and we will have to plan to use paperless drywall in all other wet areas too. I am not fond of the tile in the bathroom and have redone several bathrooms with durarock and new tile and paperless drywall so this is not that daunting, but close attention to LEED requirements can be so detailed that it is frustrating.

Posted in Energy Efficiency, LEED Project | Comments Off on Potential Energy

Primary/Secondary Piping Complexities

This is the new primary/secondary piping. It follows several boiler piping rules of thumb, although the 009 pump is now a bit over-sized for the primary loop. There is a secondary 011 pump that also is capable of pumping at high head because a radiant loop system consists of several turns of pipe that create a high head condition.

New Challenger Boiler Piping

New Boiler Piping Illustrated

Primary Secondary System

Primary Secondary System Piping

In place of the simple in/out system piping we now have a primary loop that circulates from hot to cold directly as well as a secondary piping loop that draws hot water from the primary loop and returns it to the primary loop. This is similar in function to the simple system except that the primary loop allows the boiler to circulate at a different and constant speed, while the secondary loop that feeds the heat emitters (radiators and radiant) can vary in speed and pressure without reducing the pressure to the boiler.

The main feature of the primary/secondary design is the “closely spaced tees” that cannot be more than 12 inches apart but should be only 4 pipe diameters (4″ for 1″ pipe) apart. The hot water line length to the tees is 8 times the pipe diameter while the cold water line needs only be 4 pipe diameters long. The Taco 009 pump runs only the primary loop while another Taco 011 pump runs the secondary loop. Both pumps are stainless steel even though cast iron is acceptable in a closed loop system, I was concerned about water quality for boiler longevity so made the whole system brass, copper, and stainless steel as well as using oxygen barrier pex.

I added several gauges to the return line: temperature, pressure, and flow. That way I can compare the pressure differential between the hot water supply as it leaves the boiler and the cold water return. This difference is called a delta T and has a role in the system design. I originally was planning for a delta T of about 20 but it appears we are getting closer to 10. Sometimes when only the radiators are calling for heat in this combination system, the boiler is not firing because the return temperature is higher than the outdoor reset curve. That is how it should work–unless the radiators are not hot enough to warm the space. So I have to keep an eye on these temperatures.

Some of the other components would have been added to the simple system as well. The boiler feed valve is a Caleffi and maintains a pressure of about 10-12 psi in the system. The valve can be closed to keep new water from entering the heating system. There is a Spirovent air separator. When the system was first purged of extra air (by opening the drains at the Honeywell valves and running the loop water into a bucket until no more air bubbles appear) the system was still airy enough that water was burping out of this vent so I attached a pipe to drain it to the sump, later I removed the pipe.

The system also has a Spirotrap dirt catcher on the cold water return side. There is an acid neutralizer for the condensate overflow so that the water from the boiler condensation process is treated with limestone before entering the sump. There is a boiler pressure relief valve that is piped to the sump too. There are shutoffs before and after each pump and a boiler drain valve as well as a hose (green in the photos) that is hooked up to the Honeywell control valves in the manifold that drain each loop as it is opened.

Posted in Condensing Modulating Gas Boiler, Energy Efficiency, House Systems, Radiant Heat | Comments Off on Primary/Secondary Piping Complexities

From Simple to Complex

Single Loop System

Single Loop System

The original boiler piping design was going to be a single loop system. Return water would be pumped through the system to the boiler and hot would flow out to replace it. One Taco 009 pump was chosen for the job due to its high head pump curve. Seen below, the 009 pumps fewer gallons per minute but at higher head in feet than the other larger pumps and higher than the smaller pumps that pump similar gallons per minute.

Taco curves 009-0014

Taco curves 009-0014

This graphs also compares the 009 with the smaller pump sizes.

Taco pump curves

Taco pump curves 003-0014

This was a beautiful simple system. However, when tested, I could not get the water to pump fast enough through the piping to keep pressure in the boiler. Actually, there were several things wrong with this first installation that might have been changed one at a time and this simple loop system would have worked. I did not know that at the time, and only found the issues one by one. My first step was to abandon the simple system for a more complex and more usually recommended primary/secondary boiler piping design.

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Double Double Toil and Trouble

Hot water recirc

Hot water recirculation pump is brown (not black) and pumped directly back into the cold water return line.

This old brown pump came with the house (also an 006) but did not pump. I replaced this one with a different Taco 006 that includes a temperature sensor. The new pump worked, however, it broke the flow control switch in the boiler!

The boiler system has been recalcitrant at best, that is if I may anthropomorphize it a bit. I have joined the ranks of POEM as described by Garrison Keillor. (Professional Organization of English Majors–in case you are not a lifelong fan.) And an English degree allows for a high tolerance for reading directions, not necessarily impeccable grammar and spelling. But reading directions only goes so far. Many years ago I worked with a wonderful volunteer retired lady in the school library of our small town, Spencer, Indiana. Inez used to say that education costs money, one way or the other. And in fact I was willing to pay for the education I needed to install and recommend a radiant system. I have been getting that education one way or another and paying for it.

You might recall the exultation of hot water in an earlier post. I broke the boiler in the next step, putting in a recirculation pump to keep the water in the structured plumbing system warm at high use times of the day. The Taco 007 recirc pump was recommended for recirculation in the directions, however, the flow control in the boiler immediately stopped working upon having water pumped into it. The Taco 006 is similar to the 007 but it can overcome a larger amount of head pressure and does not pump as many GPM as the 007. The 006 is 1/40 HP while the 007 is 1/25 HP so the 006 should not have overwhelmed the boiler flow control.

I ordered a new flow control switch but it didn’t seem to work. Unfortunately one of the times I installed it, I put it in upside down which support told me would break it. So I just ordered another one, not being willing to accuse someone of incompetence, other than myself. Triangle Tube support generously recommended a bypass test to see if the flow control was the issue and after jumping it, the boiler went into an error code for the temp sensor. Another expensive part later the boiler was back to work heating our hot water. Since I only work on the house one or two weeks out of every month, this was a months long process. In the meantime, the radiant heat side of the boiler was also giving me fits.

I should mention that the recirc is now up and running. I realized that flow controls break if there is too much water pressure, which the pump obviously provided. So I bought a pressure regulator and also raised the pump above the water return. At first I had the pressure regulator too restricted. An interesting thing about these devices is that the pressure increases as the screw is loosened, and decreases as it is tightened. So I had to allow a higher pressure through the line to get the boiler to have enough flow to turn on. But now the recirc works great. It has a built in temperature sensor so it regulates itself and I put it on a timer so that it only runs four times a day, when we are likely to need hot water at the tap.

UPDATE: I replaced the timer with a remote controlled receiver and a remote. Now the water only circulates for the few minutes before we get into the shower. We have a 3-5 minute wait, but that is so much better than wasting water.

Skylink Remote Receiver with separate remote.

Blue Recirc Pump

New blue (not turquoise) recirculation pump.

Water rises a few feet to the pump itself and then falls three feet and goes through a pressure regulator valve before moving back into the boiler. Flow control is working fine. There are shutoffs on either side of this pump too. Have to install these as they allow for repair or replacement of the pump without completely turning off and draining the water system.

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A Light in the Attic

After all I had to take a work light up into the attic so I could see to install the recycled/reused insulation from the deconstruction to increase the R-value in the small attic over the back bedroom and bath.

The original insulation was blown in fiberglass. I was told it was fiberglass, I thought some other kind of cellulose was used and this stuff was not as prickly as the batts. You can see the boards that I put over the top so that I could crawl around without falling through the ceiling.

Blown in Insulation

Blown in Insulation

The insulation was about 6″ deep up there for an R value of about 24.

Blown in at Eaves

Blown in at Eaves

Although difficult to see in the photo, there is a continuous plastic vapor/air barrier on the warm side of the attic floor.

Plastic vapor barrier

Plastic vapor barrier on warm side installed before the drywall

Also the eaves were sealed with caulk and in some cases spray foam–the attic is not vented at the eaves.

Sealed at the eaves

Sealed at the eaves

I added two layers of fiberglass batt pushed back into the eaves over the walls and laid perpendicular to each other.

Layers of Fiberglass batt

Layers of Fiberglass batt

We still had more batts to use up so I laid some three deep around the front wall and piled them up in front of the only interior wall.

Interior wall Insulation

Interior wall Insulation

Final R-Value? Probably around R-66. (two layers of 5 1/2 inch plus the original 6.) A good amount for an attic.

Two layers of batts

Two layers of batts

The job was hot and prickly. I coated myself with baby powder, wore a 3M mask, a tyvek coverall and gloves and still felt prickly afterwards. A good hot shower immediately afterward helped though.

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Rock Around the Wool

Rock wool High

Clerestory Corner

Rock Wool Clerestory

Rock Wool Clerestory

Rock Wool Closet

Rock Wool Closet

Rock Wool Ceiling

Rock Wool Ceiling

Rock Wool Excess

Rock Wool Excess

After many months of installation, plus some time off for a retirement trip and family visiting, the rock wool mostly got installed. Of course these oversize pillows make a large difference in the house being able to hold its passive solar heat and it is cozy inside again. The temporary electric heaters ran the electricity bill up to over $300 one month, but that is better than freezing pipes.

True to the hype, this insulation was very much easier to install than fiberglass batts. It is still dusty and a mask is still a good idea, but it does not cling to the skin and itch like crazy for weeks afterward. Actually my brother-in-law, a contractor, told us to use baby powder before working with fiberglass and it really did help to keep the stuff from clinging, as long as sweat didn’t wash the powder away.

It appears that I over ordered by quite some amount of the 24″ stuff. I suspect that I doubled the ceiling twice as we have about 30 bales too many. When I was figuring linear feet of ceiling, I may have doubled the amount for two layers of 5.5 inch Roxul, then when the order was complete, I doubled the number of rolls to account for the double layer. At least that is what I think I did.
UPDATE: I double checked my figures for the insulation in the ceiling and I did not double the measurement twice. I did add 10% and that should have resulted in 9 more bales of the 23″ size. I don’t know how many rolls were delivered when it came, my son-in-law just stacked the delivery inside and we never counted. They MAY have delivered more than I ordered.

The extra is in the way, but we have odds and ends to complete and have to figure out how and where the wiring will pierce the barrier, so some of the overage will be used. The rest will have to find another home.

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More About Rock Wool

Insulation, just like so many LEED building options was a rather tortuous decision. I was introduced to the idea of using rock wool by Sarah, my LEED expert friend. She recommended looking at rock wool for a couple of reasons. It has a bit higher R value plus it can have a high recycled content. It is often used commercially because it has a higher fire resistance and much higher melting point (2150 degrees vs. 1300 for fiberglass).

The technical bulletin from the Roxul site states the following advantages for rock wool batts.

• Low moisture sorption
• Water resistant
• Non-combustible
• Fire resistant
• Excellent sound absorbency
• Chemically inert
• Does not rot or sustain vermin
• Does not promote growth of fungi or mildew
• CFC- and HCFC- free product and process
• Made from natural & recycled materials

The material safety data sheet reveals that the product did cause cancer in rats injected with the substance, but not in rats subjected to inhalation. The product is classified as not cancer causing. However besides the main ingredient of mineral wool, urea formaldehyde is used as a binder.

Cured Urea Extended Phenolic
Formaldehyde BinderĀ  1-6%

This amount is the initial proportion according to this Green Building article. The heat process during manufacturing eliminates most of the chemical so that the final concentration is less than 0.0135 ppm which qualifies for Greenguard Clean Air certification.

Most US manufacturers of fiberglass insulation have stopped using urea formaldehyde in their binders entirely. And the classification of fiberglass was changed in 2001 from possibly causing cancer to not cancer causing, although there are inhalation studies where rats had a higher incidence of cancer. The MSDS list ingredients that are considered cancer causing* but only in California. The Certainteed and Owens Corning residential fiberglass products are also Greenguard certified.

Chemicals in Fiberglass Insulation:
Acetic acid ethenyl ester, polymer with ethene
Asphalt* (used in paper backing)
Hydrotreated heavy paraffinic petroleum distillate (highly refined)
Acetic acid, vinyl ester, polymer
Glass, oxide, chemicals*

Many sources consider cellulose insulation the greenest option. I was not impressed with the lower R value, the moisture holding qualities or the rodent resistance of cellulose, despite being treated with repellant and fire resistance. The cost for installation was about the same as the raw material cost for the Roxul,Ā  for the lower R value. Although articles sometimes treat the insulation values of these all the same, their actual ratings seemed to vary enough to tip the balance in favor of Roxul for our application. Foam has aĀ  much higher R value per inch, but the foam installer only quoted for 6 inches or about R 40 in the ceiling and 3″ or R 20 in the walls for $10,000 more than the rock wool cost.

5 1/2″ Rock wool – R 23
5 1/2″ Unfaced fiberglass – R 21
5 1/2″ (5.42 in.) Blown in cellulose – R 19

I was also interested in a material that would not harbor rodents or mold. Rock wool is purported to be resistant to both. But my research indicates that both fiberglass and rock wool can gather dust and fibrous material that will harbor mold. Rock wool is also used as a hydroponic grow medium specifically because it can hold moisture for plant roots, but fiberglass also can be used because it also holds water, however, I have not found a direct comparison of the moisture holding properties of fiberglass to rock wool.

Although rock wool is considered unattractive to rodents, according to Wickipedia as well as vendor sites, a study done at the University of Nebraska and presented at a conference in 1992, states that all insulation materials, including rigid foams, are susceptible to infestations and the resulting damage.

The energy cost of manufacturing and the use of recycled content is about the same for fiberglass and rock wool. Both use high heat in their manufacturing process. Roxul states that the recycled content is variable but they use at least 40% recycled materials and the new Owens Corning Ecotouch uses at least 50% .

The materials cost to us was between 40% to 55% more for the rock wool. We paid about $1.25 per square foot of 5 1/2″ rock wool and fiberglass would have cost between 57 and 75 cents a square foot for unfaced fiberglass. Although new fiberglass would have cost about $2000 less, I pulled enough mouse infested, moldy fiberglass out of the house to be sure I wanted to try something different.

Installation is supposed to be easier with rock wool batts, they are firm and do not sag during installation. A comparison to fiberglass is made on the Lamidesign blog that addresses the water holding, R-value, and fire resistance of Roxul. I was swayed by the arguments in favor of Roxul.

The MSDS recommends masks and covering clothes and heads during installation just like fiberglass insulation, but apparently the dust does not stick to skin and clothes as fiberglass does. We’ll have to do our best to be sure that air barrier sealing eliminates mouse infiltration as much as possible and guard against moisture infiltration in the future.

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Roxul Rock Wool Arrives

After a couple of false starts by Lowes, the rock wool insulation was finally delivered, which meant a full day of hauling it from the pallets on the driveway to the inside. This job fell to our son-in-law and four year old grandson, as we were out of town when it came. Grandson loves using the hand truck anyway and worked about three hours helping his daddy move the insulation.

Grandson Trucking Roxul

Grandson Trucking Roxul

I figured the order in lineal feet of insulation needed by measuring the length of the rafters in each part of the roof/ceiling and counting the spaces of that size then doubling that amount to fill the 2 x 12 rafter spaces with 2 layers of 5 1/2″ deep insulation. For the walls, I measured the height of the walls and averaged the height of the sloped ceiling walls, and then counted the cavities. Most of the ceiling is 24″ OC and most of the walls 16″ OC.
I figured 779 linear ft of insulation for the 24″ ceilings. That is doubled to get 1558 ft. of 5 1/2″ deep batts. Then I added 10% error for 1713.8 ft. divided by 4 foot sections, and in packs of 5 for a resulting order of 86 packages of 23″ batts. The 16″ ceiling were 400 lineal ft (doubled for two layers) and 394.50 of wall ft. I also added 10% error for 804 ft. of 15″ insulation in 4 foot batts and eight per package or 26.08 packages of 18″ OC. I ordered 26 packages. So in total there were 112 packages of insulation delivered and now that much to install. Yikes!

Fortklift

Fortklift cannot cross a threshold.

Pallets of Insulation

Pallets of Insulation

Stored inside

Stored inside

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Hornets’ Nest! @#&!

One of the demo experts started to tear out the hallway ceiling and came running out with a terrified cry of “HORNETS”! The guy was very allergic and would have had to take lots of Benedryl or get to a hospital had he been stung. Luckily he was not and I was able to buy some foaming hornet spray to take down this nest. (At dusk with the tear out completed in the morning.)

Dangerous Drywall

Dangerous Drywall

"Paper" Hornets

“Paper” Hornets

Destroyed Nest

Destroyed Nest

Nest Flip Side

Nest Top Side

Another reason to be sure the building is sealed both outside and inside.

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Where the Rain Gets In

Unfortunately, the flashing on the southern exposed roof was deteriorating rapidly.

Buckled Flashing

Buckled Flashing

Separation of Seal

Separation of Seal

Rotting Flashing Trim

Rotting Flashing Trim

Buckling flashing and Rotting Trim

Buckling Flashing and Rotting Trim

I used Eternbond tape to reseal the roofing to the stucco and to seal the top of the flashing to the siding after removing the old trim.

Eternabond Flashing Tape

Eternabond Flashing Tape

Flashing Tape

Flashing Tape

After sealing the top of the flashing, I screwed down the bottom where it was buckling and then resealed the seam with Loctite 375 a very low VOC construction adhesive.

I found it difficult to figure out which sealants and adhesives have the lowest VOC content. The Lowes store did not allow a search for low VOC adhesives and even their descriptions did not include the Material Safety Data Sheets that describe the VOC content. I was able to find a low cost low VOC adhesive by viewing the documents on the Loctite Product Site.

I concentrated my research on the Loctite brand because it was the only brand that Lowes sold that had low VOC content. The VOC content of 375 is < 0.1 %; < 2 g/l (calculated) which is very low. Low VOC’s are defined for paints and coatings as under 50 g/l. Construction adhesives can be up to 70 g/l. The LEED program requires the use of low VOC construction materials according to the California South Coast Air Quality Management District Rule #1168

 

 

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