More Boiler Business

Efficiency Rating Decline

The Case of the Shrinking Efficiency Rating

Even though I thought I did all the research necessary to make a good decision, I have spent time doubting the choice I made for the boiler. The radiant system was sized using the Manual J calculations for the existing heat loss of the building based on its construction and what we knew from the energy audit. The energy auditor recommended a small efficient boiler that would hang on the wall and I scoured the Internet for product recommendations. I was enchanted by the idea of purchasing both an instantaneous water heater and a boiler in one appliance and found only good things said about the Triangle Tube brand of heaters. I read all about the typical problems with oversizing a boiler and we calculated that the house required about 85,000 btu’s of heating capacity at the Denver design temperature of zero degrees. A condensing, modulating boiler is the most efficient because it allows for cooler water to return to the boiler to boost heating efficiency and it modulates its fire capacity based on an outside temperature reset adjusting to the changes in temperature automatically.

So looking at the offerings from Triangle Tube online and at various vendors, I was pleased that the Challenger was offered at 95% (Pex Supply listed it at 96%) advertised efficiency and 82,000 btu output. This boiler looked like a good fit for our needs. The combi version of the Challenger has two waterways within the heat exchanger, one is 3/4 ” for the radiant heat pipe and one is 1/2″ for the instantaneous water heater, although the water heater loop has priority when needed. You would think that water could flow through both channels and deliver heated water and radiant heat at the same time. The hot water heater (DHW)  has priority, however. The water heater is only rated at 2.4 gallons per minute, but with just two permanent residents and the idea that we would supplement the boiler with a solar water heating system, that flow rate seemed reasonable. And it certainly is for one ENDLESS shower at a time!

But I FAILED to understand enough about boilers when that decision was made to realize that a 105,000 btu input boiler would not be 96% efficient if it was producing 82,000 btu’s of heat under typical piping installations. (Should be closer to 100,000 btu’s of heat.) I did NOT look up the boiler on the Energy Star list either, which is an amazing oversight since I use the Energy Star spreadsheets religiously for choosing other appliances. In fact the boiler came with a half sheet of information that stated that the US rates the boiler as only 90% efficient.

Excerpt from Energy Star Boiler Spreadsheet

Manufacturer Brand Model Number AFUE Rating Qualified
Triangle Tube/Phase III Co., Inc. Triangle Tube Challenger CC105s 90 8/28/2012

I also did not look to see where the boiler was manufactured, (Belgium) which would not have made as much of an impact on the decision, given that the US market is limited for this type of boiler, except then I had to wrestle with European sized compression fittings.

I read that Triangle Tube boilers featured advanced stainless steel heat exchangers but did not realize that the Challenger itself did not have the stainless steel exchanger but a fused aluminum exchanger, and a stainless burner, one of the reasons for its cheaper price and smaller footprint. The Prestige Solo Excellence has a built in 14 gallon high recovery rate (semi instantaneous) water heater and is actually 95% efficient, but it is also about $2000 more expensive, and  although it can hang on a wall it is quite a bit larger both in depth and height so it needs extra support. Apparently the 110,000 btu version is the most popular. Its price is almost double what the Challenger 105 costs.

I’m not sure what boiler I would have chosen instead and don’t find anything now that has the features I wanted and is as inexpensive. But it really bothers me that I thought I was buying one of the most energy efficient heaters on the market, when that honor actually goes to the Lochinvar Knight according to the Energy Star spreadsheet.

Posted in Condensing Modulating Gas Boiler, House Systems, Radiant Heat | Comments Off on More Boiler Business

Dropping the Attic

The first step was removing the rest of the loose fill fiberglass insulation from the attic rafters. Messy job.

Loose Fill Insulation

Loose Fill Insulation

I bagged all the loose fill in case I need it to fill in or increase the depth of the insulation in the remaining attic over the rear crawlspace bedroom.

Bagging the loose fill

Bagging the loose fill

The intact attic without insulation had two different ceiling heights and each of these was a separate rafter structure which made them easier to take out.

Intact Attic

Intact Attic

The higher attic ceiling was attached across the whole width of the beam but I just used a long crowbar to remove it. On the other side it was attached to a horizontal 2 x 4 that was attached to the second part of the structure. Pretty easy to take it apart.

Higher attic ceiling

Higher attic ceiling

The scaffold was a big help while working up a story. After I loosened the rafters at the wall edge of the attic, there were only a couple of nails holding the second part of the rafter structure.

Attic rafters and scaffold

Attic rafters and scaffold

The attic had been suspended from the floating walls that I already removed. I was able to rest the structure on the scaffold to keep from having it crash to the floor.

Scaffold holding attic rafters

Scaffold holding attic rafters

The floor of the attic was then easily dropped to the ground with the help of a propped 2 x 4–so that I would not be underneath it!

Attic rafters dropped

Attic rafters dropped

The last piece to take out was the upper attic wall. It has one sensor attached to it that I forgot to disconnect so I lost the cover, but the sensor was OK.

Upper attic wall to go

Upper attic wall to go

The area looks great without the extra wall and the kitchen and part of the bath will now also have cathedral ceilings!

Attic opened up

Attic opened up

Posted in Deconstruction | Comments Off on Dropping the Attic

Mang Ox Water Filter

The well water test came back with questionable news about the water. The stains in the plumbing already indicated rust and lime (calcium carbonate) in the water and the new boiler/water heater requires that the water not be high in either. But the water test showed unacceptable levels of Manganese as well as high level of iron. (.05 ppm of Mg and .2 ppm of iron) The ph is 8.4 and the total dissolved solids super high at 850. The TDS seems to be the result of high levels of calcium carbonate (99 ppm) and other salts. The test also returned high levels of lead, sodium, and sulfate (lead .011 ppm, sodium 240 ppm and sulfate 340 ppm)–so not that suited to sensitive plants–especially food plants. Fortunately no radon, coliform or e. coli bacteria though!

What do these numbers MEAN? The best information I found regarding water quality and each item on the test list was from the New Hampshire Department of Environmental Services. Each of these factsheets thoroughly discusses the impact and issues regarding the water test results and possible treatments. Generally for high levels of hardness (130) a water softener system is utilized exchanging the calcium carbonate and other minerals for sodium. Softened water is not recommended for drinking purposes, but our water also is high in sodium so a sodium system is a questionable remedy.

I researched several forums and websites that advertised water treatment systems and found a couple of vendors that had good reputations online. After researching the different media that is available to treat water, I decided the first thing was to get the water reasonably able to be used by the boiler and water heater. This meant reducing the levels of iron and manganese and doing something about the hardness–calcium carbonate.

Water is treated for iron with a greensand or birm filter. But these media have been superseded by new treatment media such as Filox and Mang-Ox. The latter media seemed to be the most recent and best due to its solid composition and long life. It is manufactured by Noble House Group. The online filter store, Clean Water Systems, (now Clean Water Store, is an online vendor for a system with this media and they were often recommended in various water issue forums. UPDATE: This vender has replaced the MangOx filter with a ProOx filter.

This filter will reduce the rust in the water but will not help with the lime and hardness. For that I decided to try an inexpensive electronic filter that is supposed to keep the calcium carbonate in suspension thus alleviating the deposits on pipes and fixtures. Some water companies especially pooh pooh this method but there is some evidence that it works as I heard from a fellow boiler classmate and from the New Hampshire information sheets. The Clearwave CW-125 Salt Free Electronic Water Conditioner from Amazon for $129 and hope that it will prevent scale buildup on the boiler.

Otherwise the installation of the filter took time and research, but it was relatively easy. The pressure tank also had to be reinstalled and I had to change both the leaking drain spigot and the ball valve because I could not get the reducing coupling out of the old one. The valve is 1 1/4 inch and the water supply I was using is 1″ so there was still a brass reducer. I kept everything lead free and brass, copper, or pex in the system. But there still seems to be one galvanized pipe that comes out of the pressure tank.

The Mang-Ox media came in three bags, packed separately, and the filter has gravel at the bottom. The Vortech tank has a central pipe and bottom screen that allow for better backflushing and the meter that the company recommended is the Fleck 7000STX, which I bought with an internal flow meter so that the system would backflush based on gallons used rather than time past–this is because we are not moved into the house yet. Also it will tell us how much water we are using which is a LEED recommendation. I had one issue with the meter setup–well two, I broke one of the washers for the rear slip in pipe connection but luckily had one that fit available from a broken union valve. I also could not get the buttons to respond to touch and thought the whole meter was broken, but a call to the company had me remove the cover and press the buttons directly and they worked fine. Apparently the touch controls on the cover can become misaligned in shipping. They aligned properly when I reinstalled the cover.

There is a formula for setting the hardness and the system capacity that results in the number of gallons between backflushes. The ratio is never really spelled out in the directions and neither is the fact that the number of gallons flashes with the time after setup so that is where you find out the result of the formula. I set the system for a capacity of 60 and a hardness of 100 to get a 600 gallon backflush interval. That was recommended by the vendor rep who was quite good at answering ALL of my specific questions by email. He also realized that I had the wrong installation instructions since I purchased the extra backflow tank that will also do a chlorine wash of the media to extend its life.

I used 1″ pex and sharkbite fittings for the system install–they make it easy to install and remove the piping if there is an error. The pipe is not very self-supporting though, so I used a 2×4 to hold up the connections between the filter and the drain spigot. I used a plant stand to hold up the after filter which for this system is only 5 micron–I have a ton of 5 micron filters already purchased so they recommend 1 micron but 5 will have to do for awhile.

Since the Mang-Ox filter does nothing for the calcium carbonate, hardness, TDS, or salts, I am considering installing a second filter as a carbon pre-filter to remove the chlorine and for a reverse osmosis system. I would route the RO waste water back into the water system to avoid more wasted water (other than the filter backwash water). Watts makes an RO system that sends the wasted water to the hot water tank. So I’m thinking of putting together a 1/2″ sized (as opposed to 1/4″) RO piping system that uses a more capable membrane than most residential systems, and trying to use it inline as a whole house system. Since the water pressure is only about 30 psi coming out of the existing system, I am hoping I can use one of the pumps I have already purchased to increase the water pressure to 70 psi at the RO membrane. But I have not yet quite figured out how to control the pump for the instantaneous demand. More research is required!

Mang Ox Install Media and Parts

Mang Ox Install Media and Parts

Mang Ox Filter Ready to Load

Mang Ox Filter Ready to Load

Filter Installed

Filter Installed

Well Water Entry and Pressure Tank Hookups

Well Water Entry and Pressure Tank Hookups

Filter Installed

Filter Installed with backwash connected to the utility sink drain.


UPDATE: This connection does not meet code–there must be an airgap and trap between the backwash and the drain pipe. The easiest drainage for the backwash is directly into the floor drain with a 1″ gap between the 1/2″ pipe and the drain.
Drain and Chlorine Tank

Drain and Chlorine Tank

Posted in House Systems, Plumbing | Comments Off on Mang Ox Water Filter

Slab Edge Continued

The slab edge had to be sealed against radon. I had decided to use roofing tape (Eternabond Webseal) and after returning to see that the Sanitred had pulled away from the edges of the cement, it was an even more satisfying decision.

Sanitred pulled away from edge

Sanitred pulled away from edge

First I had to break off the loose bits of concrete from the insulation covered with plastic and then vacuum the dust and gravel to clean the area. Then I applied the tape sealing the edge of the concrete to the plastic and the floor. Then I painted the tape with deck paint that is rated to work on canvas to both waterproof and protect the surface. The system seems to have worked fine and will hopefully stand up to the abuse of the rest of the deconstruction until we decide how to cover the perimeter with a decorative edge.

Single Loop System

The painted slab edge is seen along the wall behind the piping.

Posted in Construction, House Systems, Radon Mitigation | Comments Off on Slab Edge Continued

LEED Expert Visits the Site!

Yesterday a LEED expert and architect designer came from Washington DC to visit the project and give me a personal consultation gratis!! This unbelievable event was arranged by her mom, who with her husband had the house designed and built in 1984. Sarah grew up in a passive solar earth friendly home and it influenced her career choice. She is thrilled that the house has become a LEED gut remodel project.

One of the major issues that she addressed is the insulation requirements, although we also talked about the work done so far, ways to upgrade the windows and a plan to finish and verify the thermal envelope first, and then add the interior finishing work. She has experience with other gut remodels that proved the system of wall assembly with only a small opening in the drywall that was later patched and resealed. She verified that thermal imaging is one way of proving the insulation install meets Energy Star requirements, especially for Energy Star version 2.  She recommended keeping the existing wall structure in the rear of the house and in fact everywhere that other reasons don’t require the removal of the drywall. If verifiable, the current wall is about R 25, more than adequate to meet the 5% over recommended insulation standard.

We would still need to condition the crawlspace, and upgrade the radon mitigation system in that part of the house from passive to active. We need to removed drywall so that the electrician can get to the wiring in the slab area, and we need to replace the windows and doors to finish the thermal envelope portion of the project, get it inspected, and then move on to the interior. It was wonderful to obtain her advice and forethought about the project. I can’t be more happy that the original owner responded to my request for information about the house. Her advice is to write up the insulation plan and submit it to my provider for review. If they have issues with the plan, we can meet together with the Washington D. C. rule makers to discuss options and finalize a plan.

What an amazing visit and amazing weekend! Thanks to the family who all came over to get their photos taken with the old house and its new owner.

First Family with Ellen

First Family with Ellen

Posted in LEED Project | Comments Off on LEED Expert Visits the Site!

Insulation Solutions?

What is the best insulation for this remodel? That is the question.

Dense Pack and Batt Insulation

Dense Pack and Batt Insulation

Used 3.5.inch polyiso

Used 3.5.inch polyiso

It is probably one of the most important decisions because not only is insulation expensive, it is a large part of the building envelope and has to meet several criteria to make the house energy efficient and to meet the Energy Star 3 guidelines. Part of the insulation layer should exclude air infiltration too. The only place that air should enter the building is where it is intended to enter. That is the reason for the ERV/HRV ventilation equipment that is recommended.

The spray foam insulation that we used under the slab forms an air barrier and provides about 6 R per inch. But it off-gasses and is flammable so it must be covered by drywall or concrete and it cannot be installed behind existing drywall. This was the best solution for under our concrete floor. We are not exposed to the off gassing and it was sprayed to mold around the wafflemat boxes. So it was a no brainer to choose spray there. While the Insulstar installer was at the house, he did an estimate for the rest of the remodel area for a 3″ depth. He said that is about the limit of what is required anyway and he would not put any more insulation in the cavity as a practical matter.

We not only have to insulate and provide an air barrier to the remodel area, we also may have to improve the insulation in the rear part of the house where we are not removing the drywall. I read that dense packed cellulose although not a complete air barrier, reduces air infiltration almost as well. So I got a quote for sprayed in dense pack for the entire house, not just the remodel area. This would require that we put up the drywall in the remodel area firstm otherwise we would have to pay extra for a membrane to hold the dense pack. The installers drill about 3″ holes in every cavity (with cross bracing in the roof that means extra cavities) and they pump essentially recycled paper treated with fireproofing into the spaces. The quote for the entire house without air sealing (this would have to be done before they pumped) was almost half of the cost of the 3″ of spray foam. Cellulose is considered a “green” material because it is recycled. It only provides about 3.5 r value per inch and the estimator said that the walls that crush the fiberglass would probably end up a bit less than that, given that the fiberglass batts would take up part of the space in the cavity.  So the walls would be about R 19 which they probably are now but we seem to have a problem verifying the proper installation of the batts without removing the drywall!

A third option in the remodeled part of the house is to buy recycled polyiso board insulation (from Repurposed Materials where I bought the XPS for the slab perimeter) and cut it to fit after spraying an air barrier layer. This is advertised as very high R value per inch, about 6.5, although that degrades a bit over time to maybe 5.5. But testing has shown that this r value is measured at 72 degrees F. and the r value actually decreases as the outdoor temperature falls. So at zero degrees F. the insulation value can be as low as 17 for 4″ although this increases to 21 at 35 degrees. Building Science concludes that in cold climates the actual performance of polyiso is about 5 r value per inch. They recommend using a layer of insulation that is more cold tolerant in addition to the polyiso.

I would also have to cut the polyiso boards to fit between the rafters and studs. I could use a hot wire cutter and try to cut it outside to reduce exposure to the fumes that melting it would give off. The recycled stuff comes in bundles of 12 or 384 square ft. for $300. I could get some with aluminum sheeting that would improve the air barrier too. The ceiling in the remodel area alone would be about 1250 square ft. so one layer of foam would take about 3 1/3 bundles or just under $1200 to fit with 4″ of insulation. Just about the cheapest but the most labor intensive solution for R 20. Two layers in the 11.5 inch rafters would be double of course for about R40 where R38 is the recommended minimum. To fill the whole ceiling in the remodel area with used polyiso would cost about $3500 plus the labor of cutting and fitting for a conservative R value of 46 to 58 or so. That is not counting the stud walls which would be about 600 extra square ft. of 5.5 inches or another $1500 for R 22 to R 27.5 (at zero degrees) where the minimum is R 20. There is an extra 1″ of polyiso with the reflective coating on the exterior wall for another 4 or 5 R value.

This treatment could only be installed where the drywall has been removed or “wasted”. Adding the drywall to the waste stream, given that there is no way to recycle it, would detract from the LEED objectives for the building. This is a double-edged sword problem and I’m not sure how to solve it. And then there is the required air barrier issue to resolve, especially wherever the drywall is not being removed. The question is whether the existing wall structure will pass Energy Star and qualify the house for LEED.

Update!

There is a fourth choice for insulation. Rock wool batts from Roxul. This option is a bit more dense than fiberglass batt and costs about the same with a slightly higher R-value of 23/22. It has a reasonable recycled content and comes in 5 1/2 inch depths either 15 1/2″ or 23″ wide. The online calculator estimate is for 22 of the narrow batts for the walls and I added 68 for the ceiling for 1250 square ft. in a double layer for approximately $4500 in cost. The total R value would be about 28 in the walls and 46 in the ceiling where the drywall is being removed.

I am considering sheathing the gutted interior with either XPS or polyiso too. That would bridge the conduction through the rafters and studs, especially where there are no cavities to fill with insulation. We did this with EPS for the stud walls and ceiling of our home in Indiana and except for the many holes that renters seemed to need for TV cables, the walls have performed well.

There is still the possibility that we would not need to add any insulation to the rear of the house since the fiberglass/polyiso/plastic vapor-air barrier already establishes an R value of 24 or 25 which meets Energy Star guidelines. This area’s rating could be proven with Thermography following RESNET interim guidelines.

Posted in Air Intrusion/Thermal Envelope, Planning | Comments Off on Insulation Solutions?

Sweet Serendipity and Awnings

House Awnings

House Awnings

Amazingly I met the woman who with her husband originally had the house designed and built. I knew the original owners’ names from the county website and found out a bit about them from a neighbor. I found that the lady was living right in Arvada, but was too shy to try to call her. So I decided to see if she was on Face Book! She was, so I messaged her and when she noticed the message she answered me. We have met and she visited the house.

It is a wonderful house and I was sorry for her to see how dilapidated the former owners let it get. She said that they seemed to have no interest in the energy efficiency of the house, the special blinds that were covering the windows are gone, the awning covers are gone, most of her flower gardens and many of the trees she and her husband planted are gone too. Of course the floor was not buckled when she sold the house either. But we speculate that the french drain at the rear of the house has failed in some way and water got under the slab from there.

There is a new water handling system in the southeast corner that seems to take the water away from the house there and the former owners did try to use some kind of metal poles to reinforce the foundation in the front, which was probably unnecessary since it is a cassion foundation. They also put the bamboo flooring  in the rear of the house which is a nice addition, even though the trim is missing in many areas. The roof has been replaced too. Originally it was a shake roof and now it is dimensional shingle and the flat roof is heat treated asphalt. They also painted the kids room bright red and orange which was a bit jarring as well as the turquoise trim in the kitchen area!

Her husband unfortunately passed away unexpectedly and she ended up selling the house because it did require a great deal of maintenance. He used to oil the cedar siding and roof shingles yearly, and the lack of that treatment for the past decade is obvious now. They were so energy efficient that the heat rarely came on in the solar areas of the house. He also has sensors throughout the house that were connected to a computer system that showed temperatures in all the areas in real time on a diagram of the house. That was smart house technology way ahead of its time.

Of course she mentioned that the awning material (as well as the insulated curtains) were an important part of the energy efficient design and I was feeling hot with the sun working at cross purposes with my new swamp cooler installation, so I decided to replace the awnings temporarily. I bought a cheap silver reflective tarp and some grommets and cut the tarp into strips to apply to the awning frames. But I found that the existing grommets were an unusual oval size and the round grommets were not going to fit. I was having this dilemma when we met for coffee and she suggested I just staple them up, they were temporary anyway, right? Well, of course I realized, I was trying to reproduce the original system cheaply so I might as well just staple them. Great idea and a big help to have someone to talk to about the house!

I used stainless staples so they won’t rust and enjoyed seeing the sun blocked from the window areas on the lower south side of the house. That effectively reduces the solar gain in the home keeping it cooler. I have not done the upper awnings but there is little sun that is shining in through them right now so I’m good until I remove them in fall. We plan to eventually replace the awning system with the architect’s rendition of new awning construction and porch roof.

Tarp not quite long enough

Tarp not quite long enough. The gap is where it is pieced.

Stapled on the framework

Stapled on the framework

Posted in Energy Efficiency | Comments Off on Sweet Serendipity and Awnings

FTDS: Follow the directions stupid?

Well, yes, the stain came with directions, what to do when the colors overlapped, what to do when the stain beaded up on the surface, etc. etc. I read these and then proceeded to lose focus on them and had several of the difficulties mentioned and then didn’t use the suggested remedies. So the stain looks pretty awful in the utility room as the first coat put on with the foam textrure roller was horrible and I tried to etch it again and reapply. Then I got it sponged on and it beaded up and streaked. It was a learning experience, right?

Utility Room Floor

Utility Room Floor

I don’t even have a photo of the disaster area that was my Fix for this. On the rest of the floor I avoided surface beading for the most part by going over the sponged areas with a cloth to rub it in or remove the excess. The only problem was that I had streak marks where the stain layers overlapped. The directions said to spray this area with water before it dried and blend the layers together but I didn’t do that or even remember the remedy. I just proceeded thinking at least it didn’t look as bad as the utility room!

Stained floor gold

Stained floor gold “latte” coat.

The overlap is apparent in this photo.

Streaks in floor

Streaks in floor

The gold or latte color went on first and mostly soaked into the floor, the brown coat tended to bead up so I had to go over it with a rag as described. In some spots the brown was too light and the streaking too evident, so I put on a second coat wiping it up again as I went. That tended to dilute the areas that were darker and lighter and blend them together better.

Second coat of brown stain

Another view of the brown “Espresso” stain.

The seal coat went on with a napped roller although it also is supposed to soak into the concrete too so in some spots it beaded up as well leaving a mottled surface of white spots.

Seal coat

Seal coat

A partial second coat of the sealer didn’t seem to help this mottling so I gave up.

Sealer beaded up too

Sealer beaded up too

The spotted areas of the seal coat might dry and disappear. If not I will have to actually follow the directions and buff it out or use a 3m pad to remove the excess and swipe it again if the sealer is removed.

I intended to buff it anyway. I believe I can also put a top coat of liquid wax on this sealer and buff that for more shine. When I reread the instructions after the job, I was surprised that I had forgotten them in the flurry of activity to get the job done. I am not unhappy with the results even with the issues I had applying the stain. I would definitely use two colors in the future, the gold shining up through the brown gives the floor more depth and the natural differences in the concrete surface are enhanced by the double color in my estimation. Good enough is the enemy of best.

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Old Hickory Furniture

oldfaithfulinn-historic

Historic photo of the Old Faithful Inn at Yellowstone

Even though the house is not ready for furniture, it is part of the overall look and feel of the project and I knew from the beginning that our vision of a Colorado cabin would include rustic furniture and trim. I love to shop for used materials and furniture is no exception. But I know that you can’t wait until you NEED an item to acquire it, you have to plan ahead or buy new stuff. So I have been on the lookout since we bought the house for items that fit the “vision” or will direct it.

We fell in love with Old Hickory when we first visited the lodge at Yellowstone National Park. The use of natural wood with the bark showing is amazing there. If you stay in the older part of the inn and look down from the balcony, you feel as though you are in a forest of branches. It is amazing. The Inn was originally furnished with Old Hickory furniture when it was made in Martinsville, Indiana. The location of the factory has changed, but they still use hickory with the bark on for the legs and arms of tables, chairs, couches, desks, etc. In Brown County, Indiana there are some artisans who also build furniture with the local hickory wood. There are other sources of this type of furniture but Indiana is the main production state.

I purchased a full set of Old Hickory and had it shipped from the University of Washington surplus center to start the collection. Although I already had one table purchased many years ago at an Indiana auction and a TV cabinet we bought on clearance for our house in Arizona. The set was a fortunate Google find, just looking around. Someone had purchased it at one of their auctions and had not claimed it so it was sold so reasonably that I was able to pay for a shipping container to bring it all the way to Colorado. Then I found a local ad in the Denver area for chairs and a few decorative items too. I’m still on the lookout for a few more pieces.

Hickory  TV Cabinet

Hickory TV Cabinet on clearance at a Robb and Stuckey furniture outlet several years ago.

Hickory Coffee Table

Hickory Coffee Table

Hickory Couch

Hickory Couch missing one cushion

Hickory Hall Table

Hickory Hall Table

Hickory Love Seat

Hickory Love Seat

Hickory Round Table

Hickory Round Table

Hickory Square Table

One of 2 square tables for the dining area.

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LEEDing Ideas

What do we have to do to get LEED certified? I had given up on LEED soon after our Design Charrette, but Energy Logic and Carissa Sawyer stayed with me and encouraged me to continue. So far we have tried to follow LEED guidelines wherever we could. We are definitely at a pause between the push to replace the floor and the next steps. So where are we in the LEED process?

Besides an ongoing conversation about whether “gut remodel” means that all the drywall has to be wasted to uncover the studs, or whether “open up” means just opening the stud cavities to install a new “thermal barrier”. We still hope to qualify as a LEED gut remodel by packing the walls and cathedral ceilings with dense pack cellulose that both seals and insulates the stud spaces.

There are several ideas that the current version of LEED fosters and gives points to homes for if they are implemented. Even if we eventually don’t qualify for a gut remodel, we will be doing well to implement each of these areas. A new LEED version (4) is set to take effect in the fall but our project will remain under the current requirements.

The LEED for Homes categories are, Innovation in Design, Location and Linkages, Sustainable Sites, Water Efficiency, Energy and Atmosphere, Materials and Resources, Indoor Environmental Quality, and Awareness and Education. Each category has a minimum standard that must be met and in addition there are several areas that allow points to be added to a score upon which the level of LEED certification is based.

There is a self scoring tool that also helps remind the project owner where measures should be taken to provide for a well designed and executed energy efficient home. I recently reviewed this site and scored our work so far as well as scoring our plans to be sure we have every step covered as we continue on this project. UPDATE: The scoring tool that I used has been removed from the site.

I tried conscientiously to complete the first category: Innovation and Design. The two prerequisites are a preliminary rating and a durability plan with a management plan to be sure the durability designs are met. This was part of securing a certified LEED provider, who will eventually conduct the final rating and all the third party evaluations for the home and who becomes the “owner” of the project for LEED purposes.

For us, that is Energy Logic as described previously and I am sure they are one of the best LEED providers anywhere. They helped us conduct a preliminary rating, prepared the LEED spreadsheet for our project, and helped create the durability plan. Points are gained in ID for putting together an integrated project team, including a separate LEED AP professional, and holding a design charrette. One point is earned if the solar orientation is within 15 degrees of due south, and we hope to also have some innovation points for our use of waffle mat and for excess points from over reaching in some other categories such as Materials and Resources. We earned 6 points in ID and hope to earn about 4 more for innovation.

Location and Linkages provides extra points if your project is part of a LEED neighborhood development, which would be nice but we are not. But we can prove we are not on prime agricultural land, park land, flood plain, unique habitat, or wetlands. We are in a location that is over 75% filled in and is already developed. We have existing water and sewer lines although we are not hooked up to them, and have close access to open space. We do not, however have a transit stop within 1/2 mile of our house. The city has bus transportation but the closest stops are 1.7 miles away. But we earned 7 points in LL.

These are the two categories that we have basically finished but there are several more that we need to pay attention to as the project progresses. So we might be about 1/5 there!

In Sustainable Sites the prerequisites are to institute erosion control and introduce no invasive plants. We have very little site disturbance so no erosion and we also get a point just because the remodel leaves more than 40% of the lot area undisturbed, but we are also ineligible for any points for high-density development. Our landscape plan includes no conventional turf, incorporates over 90% drought tolerant plants and will shade the driveway which is our only impermeable hardscape, more than 50%. We plan to have native plant cover, which will provide erosion control throughout the lot, and have a system to control 100% of the water runoff from the roof.

We are in an area of only slight risk from termites for which we have a solid concrete top to the poured foundation walls. But we have wood within 12″ of the ground and wood to concrete contact so we can only gain one point by having all plantings 24″ from the building and sealing all potential pest entry points. That should give us a total of 13 points in SS.

Water Efficiency is next. We would like to be able to harvest rainwater, and utilize grey water but both are illegal in Colorado at the present time. Some people with wells can use rainwater but they must not be able to hook up to city water and we can for a rather large fee. It seems there could be a challenge to that law based on ability to pay the fee but it won’t be from us. We may be able to hook up a pump to our washing machine to use the water outside as long as it never goes above ground. So that is a maybe. That would not be a difficult system to install and we would gain one point. And we could utilize roof rainwater if we had a green roof that would reduce the amount of runoff without capturing the water illegally. The second area of WE is the landscape irrigation plan that was developed for us by our landscape design firm, Conservation Seeding and Restoration. That irrigation plan is a part of the project that our third party rater will evaluate for the points we hope to gain in this area. And finally the most water efficient fixtures and faucets will be installed to save as much water as possible with modern technology. This is probably a no-brainer in this day and age. We have calculated a probable 16 points in WE.

Meeting Energy Star for Homes 2.0 is a prerequisite for Energy and Atmosphere. But in this category there are two paths, prescriptive and performance. We are not sure which we will qualify for. I would like to meet all the Energy Star 3.0 guidelines and perhaps the prescriptive would gain us the most points, but we need to maintain solar gain with our south facing windows so perhaps the best system for us will be a good HERS rating. For this category, the options are to have a well installed insulation system meeting or exceeding the 2004 standards for the region, sealing the building against air infiltration, and install highly efficient heating and hot water systems.

We thought we had an efficient water distribution system for 2 points but our loop is longer than 40 ft. plus 2 x the ceiling height for the upper level. I think we have about an 130 ft. loop and that disqualifies our system from the LEED points. (It appears our system design would qualify under version 4 though!) We insulated the hot water pipes to at least R-4 (R-7) and will install energy star appliances and lighting, with a low water use washing machine.

But the most points are gained in this category from installing energy PRODUCING system, such as photovoltaic and or wind generators. We would LIKE to install a wind generator depending on the level of average wind. We also would like to install solar panels and have been reading for years about these systems so this is our chance to finally put some in. However the cost of each of these systems within our remodel time frame may eliminate them from our project. But our goal over time will still be a zero energy use home, or as close as we can come to that ideal. That would mean keeping all our energy use low so that we can provide over 30% of our energy through site installed renewable means. But without points for providing our own power we would have 24 points in EA.

I would like to really shine in the category of Materials and Resources since we are reusing and purchasing used as much of the home remodel materials as possible. We are looking for local products for all of the interior finishing. Plus we are recycling as much of the waste as we can. By reusing our framing lumber, we meet the prerequisite to not order extra lumber. But still to use the existing lumber as efficiently as possible we will have a detailed framing document that will outline how long the pieces must be to fit and how many are needed for each wall. But for framing efficiencies we hope we can gain all the points for the installation of ceiling, roof and floor structures that we are changing, and for using studs at greater than 16″ on center and earn the entire 16 points.

Indoor Environmental Quality is another category that provides a prescriptive path through the EPA Indoor airPLUS program. The first requirement of airPLUS is to meet Energy Star 3.0 and then other requirements very similar to the performance on individual measures in this LEED EQ category. The EQ prerequisites are to vent all combustion appliances and install carbon monoxide detectors as well as to provide basic exhaust in kitchens and bathrooms. Radon mitigation is also required in high risk areas, like Colorado and reducing pollution from an attached garage by not including any heat or air ducts in the space. Enhanced exhaust controls such as humidistats earn an extra point.

Room by room heat and cooling load calculation are necessary for proper sizing of heating and cooling equipment. Other ideas are to provide a zoned heating system with flow control on any radiators and an energy recovery ventilation system with a high MERV air filtration system and humidity control where necessary. Reducing exposure to outdoor air contaminants include controlling contaminants during construction and conducting a pre-occupancy air flush. Additional ongoing air quality measures are to provide for entry shoe storage, a central vacuum system that vents to the outdoors, and sealing the garage well from the living areas as well as installing an exhaust fan. With third party testing of the ventilation and exhaust systems we hope to gain 19 points in EQ.

Finally Awareness and Education requires a 1 hour energy walk through for the new homeowners. Since I have taken training in the LEED system, we will qualify for Enhanced training as well as basic. I will be creating a home-owner’s building manager’s manual with all the manuals for installed equipment and other information about getting the most out of the energy efficient features of the house, and this website, as well as any published articles, presentations or open houses we have that feature LEED characteristics will qualify for the minimum of three such events in public education and awareness for a total of 3 points in AE.

These LEED ideas, when incorporated into this remodel would total 104 points with 18 more possible points for innovation, renewable energy, etc. For a 3 bedroom house of 2213 square feet, we would need 94 points for a Platinum rating according to the project spreadsheet. But there are a lot of hurdles yet to overcome to get there.

Our House Leed Platium Certificate

Our Target–maybe 2014?

 

 

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Hot Town in the Summertime

Denver has a particularly temperate climate but it does get hot and even humid there. Last summer there were several stifling days while I worked tearing out the walls. So I was planning to find a cooling solution for this summer.

I thought about installing an ERV as it is a device we want to add anyway. LEED recommends using an Energy Recovery Ventilator (or Heat Recovery Ventilator that is essentially the same technology but does not exchange humidity while recovering heat from the exhausted air) to bring adequate amounts of outside air into a tightly sealed house. These devices do not control temperature, they only introduce tempered air (tempered by the existing air in the home that is being exhausted.) So another source of cooling would be required. I’ll continue to plan for an ERV, but at this stage of construction, we are not ready to add one.

For this summer the best solution seems to be a used evaporative (swamp) cooler. My son-in-law is quite happy with the low energy use and cooling capacity of the cooler that is installed on the roof of his house. An evaporative cooler does take some attention to run effectively.

Master Cool Evap Cooler

Master Cool Evaporative Cooler

The cooler I found on craigslist is 5500 cfm, so enough to cool at least 1800 square ft. It was made by Adobe Air around 2006 if the serial numbers included the year of manufacture.  Arizona used to be the capital of swamp coolers and there are still some homes cooled only by one of these devices which use a pump, fan and running water but no refrigerant. Evaporative coolers use a relatively low amount of energy to cool but are limited by the difference between dry bulb (the temperature measured with a dry thermometer) and wet bulb (the temperature of yes, a wet thermometer in the hot air.) In areas of low humidity, just wetting the air that is blown into the house will cool it up to 30 degrees or so, and usually below comfort levels. However, if the air already holds water because it is humid, then the wet bulb temperature is not significantly lower than the dry and the devices don’t provide much cooling.

Adobe Air was located in Phoenix and was the largest manufacturer of these devices but unfortunately they went out of business and sold their brand MasterCool to Champion, a company that still makes coolers but does not utilize some of the technologies that Adobe Air pioneered. When they were at their peak, they made the most efficient and reliable coolers on the market. It is difficult to find a modern evaportive cooler that used the technologies they employed. There is a company in Colorado, called Coolerado, that makes only a commercial cooler at this time that uses more advanced technologies. And the Speakman company, famous for its showerheads, sold their OAsys brand to a company in Nevada who still manufactures this more sophisticated design that was invented at UC Davis, but these coolers are expensive. Way too expensive to be a temporary solution, cooling for construction work this summer.

The windows in the house are either awning or casement and are not particularly conducive to a window air cooler, but Dave suggested the front door instead. We intend to replace the front door anyway so I will build an insulated panel to fit the space for the old front door and put the cooler in the covered area in front of that door. I will run water to it from an outdoor spigot through some of the leftover pex pipe and plug it into an outlet inside. Hopefully I will learn from Rob how best to run it to keep the house cool on hot summer days.

Update: The install went well, just bought the poly line for about $5.00. Attached to the faucet adapter that came with the cooler, but it seems to have a steady drip at the connection. Oiled the motor and had to push the blower a bit to get it started but it is working fine. I had to move the location to one of the awning windows because the entry area blocked the free flow of air to the cooler. The awning window was attached to the opener with screws so it was not difficult to remove.

Of course after the first day it started to rain so it was not as effective as on dry hot days. I used old pipe insulation around the window trim to get it sealed and stuffed the surrounding area with pipe insulation and XPS. It appears to have sealed reasonably well. Had to make screens to keep the windows open while the cooler is operating too. The cooler blows air into the house and unless inside air can escape at about the same rate, the cooler can’t replace the warmer inside air with cooled air. (An air conditioner removes the warm air as it operates.) I also put a screen behind the inside grille of the cooler because I noticed several mosquitoes in the house. Don’t think they had time to breed in the water, but the water might attract them. The screening should shut out any bugs crawling or flying through the unit.

I kept the cooler running 24 hours a day unlike my kids who turn theirs off during the day and let the house stay shut up and cool until the hot afternoon temperatures overtake it. I found that under construction, the house was losing the overnight cool by early afternoon hours and constant cooler air movement made it more comfortable to work in the house. It is a successful temporary solution for the summertime.

Evaporative Cooler Install

Evaporative Cooler Install

Evaporative Cooler in Window

Evaporative Cooler in Awning Window Opening

 

 

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Slab Edge Issue

Slab edge 1

Slab edge, 3″ of XPS covered by the vapor barrier.

Slab edge 2

Slab edge, in front of the south facing windows.
The edge is double width here due to a concrete ledge.

I was determined that insulating the slab would take precedence over esthetics. Despite Alberto’s misgivings, I was convinced I could solve this slab edge problem by covering the edge of the extruded polyurethane insulation in some manner after the floor was laid. I didn’t really think about the opening to the soils that was created all around the edge. The green advice that I read said that minimizing this insulation at the edge of the slab was short-sighted. The edge is one of the most leaky areas of the house. But they didn’t have a good solution for covering the area after the slab was poured. So besides staining and sealing the floor, I now have to seal the edge of the slab in a way that will exclude radon gas and hopefully be reasonably esthetic too.

The product I found after much searching online was Sanitread. They make a three part system for waterproofing and radon sealing a basement. However they have a rubberized caulking product for filling holes and cracks in foundation walls called LRB (Liquid Rubber Base) and a thickening agent called TAV.

This product is considered low in VOC. (83 g/l) but still requires good ventilation during application. It is a quartz silicate material that reacts with water to form a runny liquid, (like Elmer’s glue) that can be thickened with TAV to provide a good caulk consistency. The manufacturer claims the material remains elastic and creates a permanent bond to concrete. This is an expensive product though, according to the crack filling calculator, I would need 13 gallons of LRB and enough thickener to reach the correct viscosity to fill 265 perimeter feet about 3″ wide. If I could get by with 10 gallons and 5 gallons of thickener, the cost of the material would be about $1000 plus shipping. But I may have to coat the edge with the Permaflex liquid too. I have ordered a sample pack that will answer some of my questions about how to use the product and whether it will fill in the edge.

Other companies that offer radon sealing caulks seem to limit their products to narrow crack solutions. These typically come in a tube to be used in a caulking gun and are not meant to fill in a wide flat area like the slab edge.

Emecole makes a radon caulk for narrow cracks. Some of their products are availlable to the do it yourself types directly from their website.

Foundation Armor makes a two component joint filler that is not specifically formulated to exclude radon.

Titebond makes a similar radon sealant. It is low VOC and sold on green building supply sites.

Smalley and Company has a location in Denver and they sell a large variety of caulks and sealants, some of which may be less expensive but do the same job as Sanitred. But their list of products is long and either each product site would have to be investigated or the experts at Smalley and Company contacted to figure out which might fill this area and seal out radon.

There are also some spray on insulation products that might work on this area. A product called Ecoseal is available only to insulation professionals and sounds like it would be thin enough to just cover the edge of the slab. It is produced by Knaupf insulation. It is made to seal all joints at studs, rafters and joists before putting in batt insulation but it is also rated to block radon and is elastomeric so it will stay flexible. I filled out the form to order a sample so I hope I can try it out. There are two installers in the Denver area that have websites to find out more; Big  Al’s Insulation and RG Insulation

Update: Sanitred works! The 8 oz. of Liquid Base and 4 oz. of thickener yielded about 18″ or .3 sq. ft. of coverage. But its VOC is over 50 and the cost estimate after trying the sample is $1200 with shipping. It is definitely a reasonable consistency to spread over the 3″ gap and sticks well to both the cement slab and the wall. The substance creates a bond with these two sides and then spans the rest with an impermeable barrier. It can be covered with their Permaflex paint that would cost another $120 with shipping.

Sanitred Liquid Rubber Base

Sanitred Liquid Rubber Base-expensive, and not a very attractive option

I read in the EPA design documents for radon control that any polyurethane caulk is considered capable of excluding radon. An air barrier is essentially a radon barrier. So I began to investigate less expensive options. There are several acrylic and poly based roof coatings that I considered, but during that search Eternabond Roofing Tape was an option. I have experience with Eternabond on our RV and I realized that it would also span the area between the two concrete sides, has adequate stickiness to place over the PVC and foam, and will provide an air and water proof barrier over the gap. The Webseal tape is meant to be painted or coated over so I chose that in 4″ and 6″ rolls. There are approximately 180 lineal ft. of wall that has the 3″ or 6″ gap, the rest of the 265 ft. perimeter is interior walls that can be caulked with gunned polyurethane, so for less than $200 I purchased enough tape to cover the gap. My supplier for Eternabond was Big Rock Roofing Supply. UPDATE: No longer in business–check Amazon instead.

I spent quite a bit of time researching what to coat the tape with. (Although not at Smalley and Company). I decided to look for an elastomeric coating that is low or no VOC and I prefer a color that would blend in with the stained floor. I would have liked to use Rustoleum’s Sierra 2 part epoxy paint, but it did not come in brown and I could not find a kit of just one gallon of both parts online, at least not in the tile red color that appeared to be closest to brown.  Home Depot and Lowes do not carry this version of  Rustoleum’s epoxy paint in the Denver, Colorado area. So I decided to use a one part Duckback acrylic deck paint that is <50 VOC and had decent reviews. A gallon should provide at least two coats to cover the 50 square ft. or so of perimeter.

Here were the best candidates I found for the perimeter solution:

Square Ft. of Perimeter 50
Perimeter Treatment Amount in oz/ft Coverage in sq. ft. Total Total x Coverage Gal Cost VOC
Sanigard Sample 8 0.3 50 166.9 1333.3 10.4 $1200 Medium
Through the Roof Caulk 32 3 50 16.7 533.3 4.2 $268 High 190
Eternabond Webseal Roof Tape 50 50 lin. ft. 150 Plus remainder of 6″ roll on hand $276 No
Covered by:
Sierra Epoxy Paint 256 100 50 0.50 128.00 1.00 $150 No
Duckback Paint 128 100 50 0.50 64.00 0.50 $59 Low 50
Posted in Construction, House Systems | Comments Off on Slab Edge Issue

Shutterfly Book

Arvada House Shutterfly Book

Shutterfly book title page

This is an online copy of a book I created to show off the house and commemorate the major milestone of getting the broken floor in the house replaced.

This link will open a new window that will take some time to load. It is a Shutterfly share site and there is a full screen option on the Arvada House book slideshow.

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Radon Report

Radon Test Results 23.7 Pc/L

Radon Test Results–HIGH

I picked up a Radon test while browsing in Home Depot. Just thinking that it might be good to see what the concentration was before I bought expensive radon vent fans and sealed up the sump hole. I followed the instructions and left the two small vials uncapped and placed them in the living space over one of the vent pipes. I had to keep the doors and windows closed for 4 days which was not difficult in the cool and damp days of early May. After exactly 4 days, I capped the two vials and registered them on a website then mailed them in with a check for $30. (Didn’t realize the $10 test would require an additional $30 lab fee.)

In a surprisingly short amount of time, notification of the completed radon report was emailed to me and I was able to log into the site to get the full report. We definitely have a high level of radon present in the house. The test showed 23.7 as an average of the two vials, which were 20.7 and 26.7. So what does that mean? The EPA recommends a Pc/L level of 4 or lower, 10 or higher requires mitigation.

I found that Jefferson county makes tests available for $10 but it is not clear if that pays the lab fees. Kansas State manages a National Radon Protection Services website and they advertise $15 all inclusive short term kits and $25 long term kits. First you have to register with the site to order a kit. But unlike the commercial test, you can pay online with a credit card.

Radon is a cancer causing agent and there are odds for both smokers and non-smokers to develop cancer as a result of exposure. At 20 pc/l the odds are 36 out of 1000 non-smokers could develop lung cancer (260 smokers). So radon mitigation is definitely required and I’ll purchase and install the fans on our slab depressurization system.

Additionally, the soil in the crawlspace will have to be covered with cross linked polyethylene sheeting and a pipe from under that cover will connect to the existing passive system with the addition of a fan to that pipe. In all we will have three or four fans venting radon gas. Two underslab vents, one crawlspace, and one in the sump area.

Next the water will have to be tested. There was a big puddle of water on the floor from a burst hose during the test and that may have contributed to the high level of radon. Radon mitigation for well water is much more expensive than soil mitigation.  The preferred method is aeration, running the water through nozzles in a large tank and blowing the contaminated air out of the upper part of the tank. The other is a carbon filter, but the radiation accumulates in the carbon and can itself become dangerously radioactive.
There is no correlation between the existence of radon in the soil and in a well, nor any correlation between the depth of the well and the existence of radon. It will be interesting to see if we got a double-whammy of radon. (UPDATE: No radon was found in the water samples!)

Posted in Construction, House Systems, Radon Mitigation | Comments Off on Radon Report

You Stain, You Gain?

Alberto introduced the idea of staining the concrete several months ago and I panned the idea, did not want to think about extra expense at the time. But when the concrete was finished and Alberto said the next step was stain or seal, I hesitated. I had found a product I would like to use to stain the floor with, and I wanted to use it. My reasoning was that I was ready for a do it yourself project and the cost for commercial staining was something like $2 a square foot, a cost I did not want to add at this point.

The etch, stain and sealer that I found are based on soy instead of petrochemicals. That was very attractive, and the products qualify for LEED points for using no or low VOC (volatile organic chemicals like the odor of paint and other petrochemical installations.) The product is made in Phoenix, at least that is the company headquarters which could be considered local except that I am using it in Colorado, more than the required 500 miles away and who knows where they get the soy.  The company name is Eco Soy Products. UPDATE: Now Eco Safety Products.

I hemmed and hawed somewhat about the stain project. It wasn’t clear to me that I needed to stain the concrete floor. I have a problem about how to handle the insulation edges of the floor. I’m not sure how I’m going to cover the insulation and plastic that take up the 3″ perimeter of the entire floor. A tile edging maybe or laminate trim? But the soy product was so attractive and staining the floor would put off any decision about other floor coverings, The website suggests a sample to help decide so I called the company and paid about $13 for 2 oz. containers of etch and desert sand stain.

I tried it on the floor near the toilet in the family room where it would not be visible if I decided not to go ahead with it. I was not thrilled with the desert sand color. At first it looked like baby poop to me. That is the golden yellow breast fed baby poop of a very young infant. But after looking at the darker colors on the color chart and talking to my niece who used acid staining techniques with two colors on her patio, I decided i wanted both a lighter and darker brown, so the color on second thought looks a bit like coffee au lait!

Baby Poop Color Stain

Baby Poop Color Stain

Same color but Coffee Au Lait

Same color but Coffee Au Lait

Color faded a bit

Color faded a bit when etched over

The floor is very variable in color and each water spill seems to have left marks on it. I decided to try a bigger sample area in the utility room. I found the sample etch did a good job of somewhat evening out the appearance of the concrete surface. The larger patch of stain looked even less like baby poop too. So I started thinking about ordering the stain, the etch and the sealer. The website has a rule of thumb regarding coverage. Our concrete floor is 1600 square ft. and the stain covers from 200 to 400 square ft. a gallon. So I decided that 5 gallon buckets of the stuff would be about right.

Wnen I did a google search to find the company again, instead I found that there was a vender on ebay, offering the products for a reduced price including a little wiggle room on the shipping and asking price. So I bargained a bit and ordered 4 buckets, 1 each of desert sand and espresso, and one each of etch and penetrating sealer. It seemed like a reasonable deal and a savings of about $400 over the manufacturer’s website. I ordered before the last trip to Colorado started and expected to receive it within the first week of the working visit. I didn’t hear anything about the shipment for a few days and then contacted the seller to learn that the guy had not followed up with the company and the products had not shipped yet! Then it took several more days for the guy to get them to ship and I swear the product came on a slow boat from Phoenix, as it took several days to deliver.

Finally, the 196 pound shipment came FedEx freight, and that requires scheduling the delivery and a signature, but FedEx had not mentioned this in their tracking information so I waited all day on the estimated delivery day hoping to start the project before the weekend, but no shipment arrived. They did not have a phone number to reach me to schedule delivery. I found this out on Friday morning, over 2 weeks after the initial order. Luckily I had called to find out what happened to the shipment but by then they had to schedule actual delivery for Monday. I was leaving on Wednesday so not much time to use the product before I left the job site for at least another month! What a disappointment that was, so maybe it would have been worth four hundred more dollars to get the product shipped without delay. But I can’t be sure the company would have shipped as fast as they did the sample either.

 

Posted in Design Style, LEED Project | Leave a comment

Boiler Struggles

Planning for the boiler install has taken quite a bit of study. Similar to installing the radiant system itself that required learning about pex, radiant pipe layouts, Manual J, heat loss calculations, flow rates, btu’s per square foot, etc. etc. the boiler installation is another full university course worth of study. Besides the Uponor manual that I have already described, and of course the Challenger Installation Manual, I have been looking at other boiler install manuals, pump manuals, do it yourself postings, and helpful heating websites. I will create a list of these and add them to a resources tab. It is about time I list the resources that I have used for this project in its own area.

Much of the installation is quite straightforward, until it comes time to actually perform the pipe additions and tightening required. There are so many devices to connect to the hot water heater or the boiler connection pipes that the total installation becomes a bit fuzzy and difficult to assemble. And of course since the fittings to the boiler are compression fittings, they require two wrenches to tighten as per the instructions. However,  when I tried sending water through the system, I found that they leaked badly and the inside connections leaked too . After search the internet to figure out where I had gone wrong, I realized I had overtightened the compression fittings, a common error, and despite using two wrenches, had loosened the fittings inside the boiler! So yet again, after fitting all the connections together several times and taking them apart, I had to disassemble the entire pipe installation to begin to fix the leaks.

Here are some diagrams of the hot water connections from the Challenger installation manual.

Challenger Boiler DHW Piping for Install

Challenger Boiler Domestic Hot Water piping with customizations drawn in to represent my system.

Interestingly only number 7, the mixing valve, was included with the boiler. And there was a 1/2″ size ball valve that I can’t figure out how to install since the 1/2″ hot and cold water pipes connected to 3/4″ pipe with the included compression fittings, so I bought 3/4″ shut off valves. (Update: the 1/2″ ball valve was for the gas supply.) Of course I didn’t realize there was a mixing valve included either so I had purchased one but I think I will use the included one in the setup. I bought two used Taco I-series valves from ebay and think their setup may be more complicated than the manual valve.

Challenger Boiler System Pipe

Challenger Boiler System Pipe 1st install drawing with customization for my system.

There are far fewer connections required for the boiler plumbing. The instructions require a primary/secondary piping arrangement. Interestingly, some of the professional forum posters believe this P/S system is unnecessary with a condensing boiler, but the installation instructions requires primary/secondary. I thought this first drawing represented a P/S system, which basically means there is a loop that just circulates the hot water and a secondary system of loops that feed the zone valves (or secondary circulators if those are used instead.) We have Honeywell zone valves on our existing system. Originally, I planned to put the primary circulator pump on the hot side even though the Challenger instructions have it on the cold side, but when I read more I realized it is the secondary circulator pump that should be on the hot side.

Challenger Boiler System Pipe No. 2

Challenger Boiler System Pipe No. 2

The second drawing is very similar to the first except that I included temperature and pressure gauges on the return pipe. I read that it is useful to have but also read that they are not necessary because anyone can feel a 10 degree or 20 degree temperature difference just by touching the pipes. But the pipe is supposed to be insulated and I think it takes a professional experience to “feel” for the difference so I opted for gauges. The above drawing still does not have two “closely spaced tees” in the primary loop. The return and supply pipes on the existing system are about 11″ apart. That is within the maximum distance allowed, but the rule of thumb is 4 times the diameter of the pipe being used or 12″ maximum. I’m using 1″ pipe up to where it connects with the existing 1 1/4″ pipe so the ideal distance for the two tees is 4″. To accomplish that I will have to install the primary loop something like the drawing below.

Challenger Boiler System Piping for Install 3rd drawing

Challenger Boiler System Piping for Install 3rd drawingse

This last layout diagram has a connecting pipe between the hot and cold connections to the secondary loop. The Uponor manual leaves this connection out because condensing boilers do not need the return water to be warm enough to prevent condensation. When the cooler water enters a traditional hot water boiler, as with a glass of ice water on a warm day, the water will condense on the warm boiler which is a problem for traditional boilers. A condensing boiler takes advantage of this phenomenon to extract extra heat from the condensing water and increase the efficiency of the boiler, it is not a problem for a condensing boiler to receive cooler water. In fact it makes it operate more efficiently if the temperature difference between incoming and outgoing water is closer to 20 degrees (known as delta T of 20) versus 10 degrees which is often recommended for traditional boilers. If this short connection is installed, it allows warm water to flow throughout the primary loop, warming the water that enters the boiler. So it doesn’t really make sense to me for the Challenger instructions to include this connection. Should it be there or not?

These struggles are just the tip of the iceberg in the effort to learn enough to install the condensing boiler myself. Others would prefer to leave this learning to the professionals or they might not appreciate that there is so much to know to do the installation correctly. But I want to learn as much as possible with this project as I am planning to support others who are working on green remodeling. So where to turn?

I actually signed up for a Triangle Tube training that occurred right in Arvada-one of the few training sites in the country. I did this as a green building advisor, as individual owners of these boilers are not allowed to take this professional course. The course was two days and I got a lot of information about the larger versions of Triangle Tube boilers and their control systems. Only at the very end of the two days was this newer model discussed. The trainer had installed the boiler for his daughter for a year and showed the actual inside of the aluminum exchanger after a year’s use.

The system is much less complicated than the larger boiler and he recommended just using smaller pumps with a single loop system instead of a primary/secondary setup. I was the only woman in the class and the installers who attended were very skeptical of any use of Manual J for calculating boiler requirements. They said in a strong wind those calculations would go right out the window! My questions and research were very much pooh poohed and I felt a bit out of place in the classroom, but I was able to gather many notes and information about boiler installation. They talked about a very scary story of a family who recently died in a vacation house from the boiler fumes. They were not specific about how it happened but it was not a Triangle Tube boiler.

Posted in Condensing Modulating Gas Boiler, House Systems, Radiant Heat | Leave a comment

Videos of the Concrete Pour

 

I’ve been taking a few videos of parts of the construction progress. I used iMovie to create files that are small enough to load here. These are “mobile” size snippets of the concrete pour. I’m one day off on the date though, it was March 18th not the 19th. Oh well, details… If these play in the same window, click on the back button to return to the blog.

Concrete Pump

Concrete Screed and Float

Posted in Moisture Intrusion/Expansive Soil | Leave a comment

Boiler Flue

The boiler flue and air supply need only plastic pipe to connect to the outside. Most new furnaces use PVC now instead of metal flue. I didn’t want to put another hole in the roof so I ordered a concentric flue that joins both pipes, one inside the other, so only one hole has to go through the roof. The pipe is assembled with pipe glue as used in plumbing. Still it was difficult to line up the pipes and get everything cut to the right lengths. Plus I used leftover pipe from plumbing so had to splice one run. The tape was used to hold the pipe while it was connected. I used the existing metal pipe and cap and bought a vent end that I cut with tin snips to hold the concentric vent. Duck tape was stretched over the sharp edges of the cut metal, the vent was pushed through the hole, and the end was screwed into the bottom of the metal flue.

Connection to the old vent stack

Connection to the old vent stack

Air supply and flue to concentric vent

Air supply and flue to concentric vent

Completed flue

Completed flue

Posted in Condensing Modulating Gas Boiler, Construction, House Systems, Radiant Heat | Leave a comment

May Snow!

Snow on the front terrace

Snow on the front terrace

Snow drifted on the north and west

Snow drifted on the north and west

Electrical Box Snow Cap

Electrical Box Snow Cap

Denver has an interesting climate. Snow tends to fall most often in the spring. This year it snowed on the first of May (and the second had more flurries.) This snow does not tend to stay around long and in this case the asphalt drive did not even require any shoveling, it melted on the dark surface as it fell. The same week, on one of the coldest days ever recorded in May, the morning low temperature was 19 degrees. The house holds heat so well that it was not that cold and I got by fine with a small oil heater in the bedroom. Of course that makes me wonder why I have spent almost $10,000 putting in a radiant heating system that will keep the house warm as a toaster at zero degrees. Not that it doesn’t get below zero in Denver.

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USGBC Denver Rocky Mountain Green Conference

Denver Magazine Green Roofs-7-10

Denver Magazine Article 7/10 Green Roof

This is the roof we toured at the conference! It is “semi intense”, planted in trays and suffering a bit from the extreme conditions in Denver, cold, heat, wind and sun. Also has suffered from lack of maintenance. But it has been successful both to absorb water runoff and to insulate the building reducing heating and cooling costs.

I registered for this conference and then got to volunteer at the Green Roof seminar that I had signed up for on Thursday. Unfortunately I was too sick with a bad cold/sinus infection to return for the Friday sessions but the Green Roof seminar was really interesting. The presenters concentrated on green roofs in the desert southwest and high desert areas like Colorado. They had a slide show of green roofs, some of which have lasted over 100 years in Europe, and many of their own design. The presenters were  Andy Creath, Green Roofs of Colorado and Mark Fusco, LEED AP, Bison Innovative Products.

They recommended the American Society of Landscape Architect’s green roof website. ASLA has a green roof on their headquarters in Washington D.C. There is a link from that site to a USA Today interactive site that shows the several layers used on a green roof. The presenters recommended at least three of those layers, the waterproof membrane, the drainage layer and the filter fabric to keep the soil fine particles out of the drainage. They also recommended a growing medium instead of actual “dirt” consisting of organic matter and expanded slate. They prefer a “semi-intense” design, which calls for 3-4″ of medium, usually used in trays. An “intense” system would have 12 or more inches of medium and can support deeper rooted plants like herbs and vegetables.

Here are some recommended plants for a western green roof mentioned by the presenters: sedum album, sedum spurium, cactus, chrysanthemum variety, Mexican feather grass, yucca, seiboldiana (hosta sieboldiana, montanum not so good), penstemon, sulfur buckwheat, ice plants (need water), south african daisy, desert annuals, phacelia, prickly pear (great!)  veronica, and ornamental onions. Biodiversity is best.

Of course having a roof that can support a relatively heavy green roof is the first step. They said to expect about 25-30 pounds per square foot of weight. Roof are mostly engineered for at least 40 but with snow loads in Colorado, I’m not sure if our existing roof would be strong enough even for a tray system. I sent information to the presenters about the local company that makes a green roof containment system in Golden, Colorado, Invisible Solutions. I would like to use the products from this company in some way, either for a green deck or green roof system. Bison makes some pretty cool roof deck products locally too.

Thanks to the presenters and USGBC Denver for a very interesting seminar.

 

Posted in Design Style, Green Building Interests, Local Products | Leave a comment