Seems like it shouldn’t take two days to complete the wall in the master bathroom and closet but it did. First I put up the membrane in the closet area as the bathroom was done already. The 50 amp wire for the spa goes through these two areas and it had to be protected from drywall screws so I cut leftover metal studs to create a channel for the wire. The drywallers just have to remember to screw only into the top of the metal stud and not into the lower part possibly nicking the wire. The position of the wire can be seen through the stud openings too.
Metal stud for wire chase
Then I had to decide how to build out the wall that will be over the vanity and that holds both the plumbing and the electrical boxes for the sconces so that the outer wall is not breached.
Spacing for sconce lights
The original spacing for the left electrical box was too close to the shower wall so I moved it over a bit. Also added a second 2 x 2 in front of the first spaced out with 1/2″ plywood to make a 3 1/2″ deep area so the drain pipe fits inside the wall.
Build out for plumbing
I had to add cross pieces to the bump out to have enough nailers for drywall. The 3 1/2″ depth allowed enough space to reuse more 2 x 4’s for the nailers.
I decided to create a space that would hold a reused oak medicine cabinet from the original house for over the sink. I will have them just drywall this area and cut out for the medicine cabinet later.
Space for medicine chest
While I was working on this I remembered that I had originally planned to replace the outside spigot on this side of the house. I already had the spigot and just had to drill through the wall and cut into the pex to add a sharkbite tee fitting that I also already had.
Tee fitting for outside spigot
I tried to drill through the stucco from inside but the drill bit was making no progress so finally I just used a huge nail left over from holding down the waffleboxes and punched the hole in the outside wall with a 5 lb hammer and that nail. It worked like a charm. And then I was able to drill the 1″ hole from the outside to open it for the spigot.
In order to have the tee fitting inside the concealed plumbing area, I had to push the spigot out further than the outside wall. The freeze proof pipe for the spigot had to be as long as it was (9 1/2″) for me to add the connections on the inside but then it was too long to hide the pex connections inside. So I decided to just protect the outside with a piece of leftover vacuum plastic pipe and a rubber pipe end that I had laying around.
I stuffed the opening with the intruder stainless steel mesh to keep out mice and then I caulked the opening. Then I added the white pipe and the black end, taped them underneath and caulked it to the wall. I didn’t screw the spigot into the wall yet. Since the pipe inside is stabilized, it may not need the outside screws.
The next day I had to take it all apart and fix a leak between the spigot and the sharkbite fitting. I had not tighted the two enough in the wall. So I tightened them outside the wall and pushed the whole thing through to connect again on the inside. Then of course redid the stainless mesh, the white pipe and the black end. I waited to see if the leak was fixed before I re-caulked the spigot.
This area would be finished if I didn’t also remember that I have to install the low speed ventilation fan that will pull house air through the crawlspace to help it stay conditioned. Another project that was not on the preparation list but must be done before drywall.
